# St Barts Forums > St Barts Trip Reports Forum >  >  First Timer 1/18 - 1/28/2019

## Dan'l

I've learned so much from this forum that it's only right to try to give something back. So here goes. 

Flew  out of JFK 8 am arrive 1pm SXM time. Was wisely told not to book the  2pm Winair flight and take the 3:30 by this group. Good advice - our flight was  delayed because of late arrival by 45 mins. Still we landed and were  through immigration at 1:30 and with tickets in hand told if we had our  bags and at the gate in time we could catch the 2 o'clock. As fate  would have we decided to check bags (originally we weren't but figured  since we had the 3:30 why not) and they were the last to get off the belt. Go through the second round of immigration and security and by this time it was 2:30. So... a little wait and we were in the air looking forward to the famous landing at St Barths airport. We were not disappointed! Having woken at 2:30 am that morning ( we live on the east end of Long Island, 1 1/2 hrs from JFK and who knows what kind of time is needed for security with this Gov't shutdown) by the time we got settled in our rental we were pretty well beat. Went to L'ardoisse in L'orient and after a longer wait for the food than we were prepared for we settled in for a good nights sleep anticipating fun in the sun for the next ten days. We are staying in modest accommodations in Vitet. AirBnb pool house with a great view looking towards the north with the east end of St Martin to the left and Anguilla in the distant. Very quiet here with the owner nonexistent.

 First day and night was fabulous. Got to Saline beach with sandwiches from Petite Colombe before lunch and spent the day there. Beautiful beach. A side note; we have just turned 60 and have been traveling throughout the Caribbean since 1981 (Our honeymoon in St Thomas). Saline is right at the top. Anguilla has nice beaches also but at this point we are nit picking. Anyway. Dinner at Ociela, on the rail with that wonderful view. Very enjoyable, nice guitar music with female vocalist. Martinis were prepared well and we were happy. We had 3 small plates and two entrees. Small plates were kale salad, tabouli & avacado dip. Entrees were fetticunni alfredi and shrimp with zucchini noodles with pesto. At about 8 o'clock (we are early diners usually 7 - 7:30) we heard drumming down below and were told they were practicing for Carnival. They started marching up the street and became so loud our musicians had to stop! The drummers continued on into town and we resumed our meal. Having finished dinner, we went looking about the town and hearing the drumming we were drawn like moths to the light. What fun! Something about drums. The rhythm and power. They had steel drums, snare drums and different sizes of bass drums. When the the guys started banging on the big bass drums you could feel the air being moved. Everyone was dancing and mesmerized. The drummers would hang out at various bars, restaurants (we caught up with them at Le Select) then move on. They would move ahead for 50 feet or so then walk backwards for 30 feet, hang out then on we all went to our next destination. We finally left them around 11. I think they are ready for Carnival! A great end to our "first" night in St. Barths.

 Yesterday, our second day, was just as good if not better. Slow start to our day and being inexperienced caused us to miss our beach time. The inexperience because we do not know the beaches. Since our beach time was short, we decided to go close to home and try Grand cul-de-sac, didn't really care for it, then Petit cul-de-sac, no good either, then Toiney, then Grand Fond. None were our cup of tea but we parked along the side at Grand Fond, pulled out our chairs, and enjoyed the raw nature of the land and sea with our salads from Petite Colombe. Then drive back home, shower and ready for our evening and in town by 3. Why so early? We had a lot planned! Thanks to Amy from an earlier post on the main Forum we went to Domaine Felicite. And she was right. What a treasure. We were the first to arrive as they open at 3. Allan Magras and his sister greeted us and asked if we spoke French. Nope. No matter, Allan spoke good English and for the next 2 hours he treated us as royalty. I don't want to go into too much detail but the buildings on the property are loaded with Gustavia history and especially his family history. The Magras family being one of the "original" (after the Indians of course)11 families have an interesting history on St. Barths. Shopkeepers from the beginning I believe he said they control 250 shops. Don't quote me here a lot was thrown at us. Allan owns/manages the AMC stores, his cousin the C.C. P. F. along with Lou Lou's marine and many others. What he has done with Domaine Felicite is a gift to this Island. They just opened in November and I believe will become an institution. We had plans to go to the Anglican Church for the Hawaiian Music concert and Allan was still going strong with his tour. There were other people there, they were on their own but Allan was our personal guide! We were finally heading out to the gardens,, and they are absolutely beautiful, the time was 4:40 and I didn't know how to tell Allan we needed to speed it up and go to our concert. But tell him I did and graciously he did his best to get us on our way and satisfy himself that we got our money's worth, all 5 Euros worth!. His knowledge of the plants is fascinating and the garden is diverse. Many rock features along with the plants. We may be first timers but I bet we have as good, if not better, knowledge of the island then many old pros! 
 On to the Hawaiian Music. I don't have their names handy unfortunately but the trio are special people. The whole affair was special. The old stone church ( I am a mason by trade, working for the rich and famous on the east end of Long Island NY and love looking at old structures), the local people, Gustavia, the weather, champagne at intermission in the courtyard, just everything. We are blessed to be able to experience such things. The guitarist was an expert in Hawaiian Slack Guitar. He explained what it is and his skill was phenomenal. The percussionist also phenomenal. His father pioneered "exotica" percussion and he learned from his father. Exotica percussion incorporates nature sounds along with the traditional percussion instuments. The way this man whistled sounding just like tropical birds, incororated other instruments to sound like waves and wind, added with the guitar music, along with the beautiful young lady performing the traditional Hawaiian dances, was a treat to the sense. So glad we were able to experince these two venues.
 What could be the perfect ending to the afternoon?
 Dinner at Tamarin! We sat in the garden for cocktails. Beuatiful. Full Moon. Palm trees. Lilly ponds. Music. and my Loved One    period!
 Dinner was 2 green salads, burrata, tuna tar tar, chicken and veal. Sorry I've forgotten how they were prepared! I will have to take a picture of the menu next time to get the ingredients correct. I'm not a big poster on these forums, nor a food critic. I do love food! Who doesn't? Food was great. We sat in the "main area under the wooden roof. I would have preferred, and I recommend to you, to sit in the garden area to the side. Intimate dining there and a little quieter with just enough plantings to give you privacy but still feel like you are out and dining - seeing and being seen!

 So, I spent too much time here on the deck pounding away on the computer keys. Two rainbows have passed over the sea and a faint third one is lingering. Rain every night since we've been here and sun all day. We are off to Gouverneur beach and have no reservations for this evening. Maybe we'll linger at the beach or cocktails right after the beach in a casual beach bar or.... whatever! Other reservations remaining are: L'Esprit, Orega, Sante Fe (maybe we'll see our fellow Long Islanders Amy & Phil!), Black Ginger & Quartier General. 
 Thanks too all who post,
  Dan'l

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## andynap

Super first couple of days. I think you got the spirit of the island down pretty good.  :Party:    If you want a nice lunch drive into Gustavia and go to Le Repaire. Check out the specials on the blackboard. I dont see Les Bananiers on your list. Its very good for lunch or dinner.

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## dadto6

Thank you Dan'l.  It was very enjoyable reading about your first few days.  Wishing you much more fun to come!  My career started as a mason as well.  Stone work on St. Barts is very nice to critique.  Keep pounding the keys, we love to read.
Bob

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## stbartshopper

Keep up the posts. Sorry  so many of the beaches are not your 'cup of tea.' Consider booking lunch at Shellona  and the lounge  on Shell Beach. Be forewarned that beach is made up of shells not sand. Orient is very  nice as well.

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## Bart -my real name-

Whatever you do, don’t make your next run of beaches, Public or Corrosol!!  Those two, and the ones you already hit are the “worst” on the island. At least for swimming. Also, avoid Anse de Cayes for swimming.

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## Tiffany

Sounds like a wonderful start to your trip!  Make sure you don’t miss out on some Les Bananiers pizza while there.

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## GramChop

> Whatever you do, don’t make your next run of beaches, Public or Corrosol!!  Those two, and the ones you already hit are the “worst” on the island. At least for swimming. Also, avoid Anse de Cayes for swimming.



Are you just trying to keep those two fabulous swimming beaches to yourself, Bart?  :cool:    Both Public AND Corossol have been (year-after-year) excellent swimming beaches for me.  Last summer, my 11 y/o granddaughter's first St Barth trip, she got incredible GoPro footage of octopuses, lobster, turtles and a variety of colorful fish at both.  We swam there every day and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

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## Bart -my real name-

What gives, Chopper?  You trying to pick a fight with me?!?!!

I hear you and believe you!!  I think I have some mental hang up about swimming near a boat parking lot.  I always picture leaking oil or worse coming off the boats.  Probably irrational, but it’s just another side of my mental illness!!   :Wink-slap:

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## GramChop

> What gives, Chopper?  You trying to pick a fight with me?!?!!
> 
> I hear you and believe you!!  I think I have some mental hang up about swimming near a boat parking lot.  I always picture leaking oil or worse coming off the boats.  Probably irrational, but it’s just another side of my mental illness!!



Not ever...in a million years, mon ami!  

I thought the same thing for years until someone pointed out the error of my ways.  Once I put my face in the water at both, I was blown away!  I choose to believe that nothing is leaking from those boats...possibly another side to mine.   :Big Grin:

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## cec1

Re: Public and Corossol swimming . . . I'm with Missy -- great swimming, though I stay away from the areas where boats are docked.  I particularly like the area just in front of Maya's Restaurant.

Your account of first days on the island, Dan'l, was great!  You've packed a lot of activity into your days and may want to slow down a bit for the remainder of your visit.  I particularly recommend finding a luncheon restaurant where you can enjoy an afternoon.  Personally, I like the beach area at Le Toiny (swimming available in the pool, but not recommended in the sea because of undertow) . . . scenic and serene.

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## amyb

Scenic and serene sounds super and special to my ears.

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## Bart -my real name-

> Not ever...in a million years, mon ami!  
> 
> I thought the same thing for years until someone pointed out the error of my ways.  Once I put my face in the water at both, I was blown away!  I choose to believe that nothing is leaking from those boats...possibly another side to mine.



Consider myself schooled!  Next trip I’ll check out some new beaches!!

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## julianne

Terrific report, Dan’l. You have certainly captured the “vibe” of the island. For lunch, try Au Regal and then go to the beach at Corossol—quiet and fine for swimming.

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## cec1

> For lunch, try Au Regal and then go to the beach at Corossol—quiet and fine for swimming.



Great recommendation from Julianne!  And I would add, invite Rosemond & Ellen to join you for lunch!

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## dadto6

We did, exactly as Julianne describe, two weeks ago.  We enjoyed the daily special for lunch with our group at Au Regal, never disappoints.  We followed lunch by a leisurely swim at Corossol.  Very calm waters, lots of sand and gradual slope outward.  Wonderful memory of a beautiful day together.

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## cec1

. . . and Corossol beach is refreshingly “like the old days!”  Not many folks there, & the few that you’ll see likely are “locals” — especially in the hour or so after school gets out.

Also worth noting, swimming at St. Jean, in the area between Eden Rock & Nikki Beach, is very cool in the morning . . . with breakfast across the street at Kiki e Mo.

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## stbartshopper

We have dined at Au Regal (lobsters) but never swam at the beach. Will do now!

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## marybeth

Adding to this as a fan of Petit Cul de Sac. Yes, not great for swimming, but it is pretty and SO quiet. Great place to spend the day reading.  And if you go far down on the right side you can get in/out pretty easy if you want a dip to cool off.

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## Eve

Hope you make it to St Jean to watch the planes!

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## Dan'l

Well as soon as I had reported on the sunny days, posted my report & turned off the computer the rain came. Not a big deal in Caribbean but it did come down hard and stayed for a while. The rest of the day was pretty much cloudy. So we decided to go into town and not hurry to the beach. Breakfast at Le Bar de L’Oubli, very busy with the cruise crowd, we lingered there then walked around town. I didn’t pack any type of sweater or sweatshirt so we are looking for the perfect one and are still looking. Back to the rental, still not beach weather, so after hanging out for a while we went back to town for a leisurely lunch as prescribed by Cec1. Ended up at L’isoletta. Not quite Le Toiny but we did enjoy the unhurried pace of having nowhere to go. Back to the rental, no reservations for dinner, back to town, watched the sun go down at shell beach, drinks at Bagatelle and after a few laps around town stopped into Eddy’s for dinner. They were full with two couples waiting for a table, we decided not to wait and went to Black Ginger To Go and brought our dinner home to eat.
   The morning broke with the promise of a beautiful day and so it turned out so. Reservations tonight at L’Esprit. After breakfast at Petit Colombe, and with a sandwich in hand for lunch, we were off to Gouverneur Beach. Found the beach to be beautiful. The road down to the beach with the dramatic views and the parking with the entrance to the beach all very nice. Sandy bottom throughout the entire beach with dramatic coastal cliffs on either side. We watched as the goats climbed their way around the point with a little one lagging behind yelling, “wait for me”! If we are to be critics we will rate Saline still number one in our book. What makes a good beach is personal, everyone has his or her opinion and reasons. We like a calm entrance to the water, clean clear water and a sandy bottom. Gouverneur has a slope down to the water, which makes it a little tough to walk the beach, and the sand is soft. Soft sand is good, but for walking it tends to bog you down. So we were good soldiers and toughed it out down here in St. Barths soaking up the sun and watching the few clouds go by, really was a beautiful day.
   L’Esprit is a top-notch restaurant. A funny thing happened though. We were the first to arrive right at 7pm sharp. Warmly greeted by Christophe the headwaiter and seated at a nice table. After getting our flat water I noticed we were in the portion of the restaurant with no ceiling. The area being a square, three-quarters is under a roof. In an uncharacteristically cautious moment for me, I asked Christophe what do they do if it rains? “We cry” he replied. I’m thinking I don’t want to deal with that so I asked if we could be moved. As fate would have it not long after the restaurant filled you, guessed it, the patrons were moved to the front and tables were set for them. Christophe gave me the look and blamed me with a laugh.
   Next morning broke with the wind. If you can believe him, the weatherman says it will be breezy for the next three days. Breakfast at L’oubli again. The waitress, a hardworking young girl handling the entire floor, is getting to know us. A very astute young lady, the other morning she cleared the table, we sat and waited. We were tucked behind a column on the outside edge along the rail and we had the sun on our backs sitting side by side. We were comfortable just sitting there. We watched the crowd and while others came after us, were served and had eaten, we waited. (Kitchen service is fast here) She noticed us, realized we had been waiting and took the order. She apologized, we told her not to worry, gave her a 10 euro tip on a 20 Euro bill. A very hard working girl that deserves some appreciation. “You’re a nice man” in her accented English she said.
    So the wind is blowing what beach to go to? The forecast says it’s out of the East. You get to the beach and it’s blowing from every direction. After breakfast we stop at St. Jean and check out the conditions. Blowing a gale at the airport. Looks better all the way at the other end past Eden Rock. It is! We go home, get ready for the beach, and go to Saline! Why, I don’t know we’re drawn like moths to the light. Wind is kicking up the sand at Saline but we’re toughing it out like the good soldiers we are. 2:30 showers are coming through, the wind is blowing and we’re leaving. Back to town for walking, we’re not really shoppers although I did buy Rhum Vanille at M’bolo. Dinner tonight at Orega. Another well-run establishment. We had a window seat and thoroughly enjoyed our meal. 
   Well, it’s a little after 8am and we have zero plans at the moment. Sitting on the deck looking out towards Anguilla. There’s a breeze in the air but plenty of blue sky along with a few clouds. Time to get off the computer and start living the dream! Dinner tonight at Santa Fe.

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## dadto6

Living the life on St. Barts.  Soldier on!

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## elgreaux

speaking of beaches, not sure which ones Dan'l has been to yet, but be sure to consider Gouverneur, before or after lunch at santa fe... 
and don't miss the charming little cove at la petite anse at the far end of Flamands (where the large rock is in the middle of the road...)

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## marybeth

Lovely report, I am enjoyed your embedded updates. Just what is needed on a cold and blustery day in PA!

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## Dan'l

Our day with no plans started with breakfast at Kiki-e’ Mo. This is our second visit here with having had lunch the other day. We have made friends with Iby, who owns and operates it with her husband who we met. I have forgotten his name! She visits her sister who owns a home in Springs, Easthampton NY. Very close to my home in Southampton and we may get together over the summer.
   Very windy with 20 mph out of the East. We decided to hike to Colombier and on Elgreaux”s suggestion La Petite Anse. Very windy as we got out on the point just before Colombier beach. Took a lot of photos, met the goat family up close and were surprised how much wind was on the beach at Colombier. We thought it would be quiet down there protected by the hill but not so. Lots of boats taking advantage of the lee. I loved the view out over the sea back to the west. The islands made me think of pirates, as they would hide behind small islands throughout the Caribbean. La Petite Anse very pretty also, Iby had said it reminds her of Italy.
   After that a stop at Marche’ U by the airport. I also am on the hunt for some nice rum that wouldn’t be available back home. Went over to the liquor store and unfortunately they were closed for lunch. We had picked up sandwiches at Petite Colombe in Colombier and we carried them to St. Jean to spend the rest of the day on the beach.
   Plan for the night is to enjoy our deck and view and get takeout. We discovered this fabulous meat and seafood market called Meat my Fish. I just googled it and see that BBT posted about this in July of 2017. The proprietor told us to visit Ti Marche in Lorient for fresh produce. Ti Marche gets deliveries from Guadeloupe on Friday and Saturday. We picked up lettuce and tomatoes and bought rice and beans from Meat my Fish along with chicken and ribs. He cooks anything you want, open 4-7. The produce is very good at Ti Marche. Altogether a nice meal and cocktails on our deck and a nice day.
   Time to get going, only two days left. Dinner tonight at Black Ginger.

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## stbartshopper

You seem to be having the time of your life! Thank you for letting us live it with you!

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## KevinS

Dan'l, if you're still looking for rum to bring back home, check La Cave du Port Franc in Public.  It's on the road going into Gustavia, on the inland side from the fuel tanks.  I've found aged Rhum J.M there, a very nice Rhum Agricole (cane-syrup based, not molasses based).  I'm currently nearing the bottom of a bottle of the '94 rhum which I've had for close to 10 years.  Rhum Agricole isn't to everyone's taste, but I like it.  The aged bottles aren't cheap, but they're not for everyday drinking either.  

Alternatively, consider a bottle of flavored rum from M'Bolo.  M'Bolo is a block and a half up from Le Select in Gustavia, tucked behind Case in Blue, across the street from American Gourmet.  I'm partial to their Vanille Sec, a less sweet version of the vanilla rum offered in many restaurants, and they have several other flavors.  Sandrine and Christian will be happy to give you a sample taste, and to wrap your purchase in bubble wrap for the trip home.

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## PeterLynn

Got a nice Rhum Vieux at the liquor store across from the airport. "Reimonenq" from Guadeloupe. Was what they used for my ti punch at La Langouste. Also brought back a 3-liter box of Clement (Vieux) from Segeco. Something like 50 euros, which is quite the bargain.

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## KevinS

> Also brought back a 3-liter box of Clement (Vieux) from Segeco. Something like 50 euros, which is quite the bargain.



I've got a stack of those boxes.  The white is even less expensive, somewhere around €23.

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## Dan'l

Another slow start to our day, wind is up again so not going to rush to the beach. Plan is to buy rum and a t-shirt. Breakfast at Les Jardins around 10. Waitress wasn’t sure we could be seated and after asking in the back we were seated. We were the only ones in there. We enjoyed our quiet breakfast and enjoyed the little girl (3 years old) help her grandmother? set the tables for lunch. We felt like family! Parked the car and walked on St Jean beach by the airport, too windy to lounge there for the day.  So off to buy some rum.
   Thanks for the tips on the rum. I did buy a bottle of rum vanilla from M’Bolo a few nights ago and Sandrine was very nice to talk to. Their rum is white rum sourced from Guadeloupe and the rum vanilla is infused with vanilla bean for 3 months in the sun. Too late for Kevin’s advice on La Cave du Port Franc as I bought 3 bottles from the liquor store across from the airport. I found out that we are only allowed 2 liters per person through customs. We bought 7 yr. Bielle Vieux from Marie Galante, Guadeloupe; 12 yr. Trois Rivieres Martinique; and to ease it up on the pocket book a 7 yr. Havana Club. Off topic, but I am infatuated with Marie Galante and would like to visit this small island in the near future.
   Time to get to the beach. Not crazy about the constant bass from Nikki and the ack ack from the demo on Eden Rock so we decided to chance the wind at Saline. Walking the path to Saline I asked a beachgoer as he was leaving how the wind was on the beach. Not bad! He reported that he was worse in the morning but has died down some now. He was right, we walked down to the left, kept our heads down!, and had a nice afternoon on the beach.
   Home to shower & get ready for the evening. Stop in at Black Swan in St. Jean; buy the t-shirt I had been eyeing and off to pre-dinner drinks at Bonito. We enjoyed the time at Bonito very much, a beautiful setting and Joey the bartender is a happy soul. 7:30 dinner at Black Ginger, service is fast, food is good. Spring rolls, spicy green curry with beef for me, coconut milk, curry, mahi mahi for Sue. Chocolate mouse and rum vanilla to finish. 
   Time to check off another on my list of things to do in St. Barths. Rum tasting in the Rhum Room at Quarter Kitchen and Cocktail Lab. We walk in, tell the maître d’ we would like to visit the Rhum Room and he sits us at the bar while he checks to see if it is available. It is! We are escorted through the kitchen and enter the room as Thomas is putting his bartenders apron on. We have Thomas and the place to ourselves and enjoyed it all thoroughly. Thomas was very informative, we tasted so many varieties that there is no way I could keep track. Good conversation with Thomas about St. Barths along with the Rhum talk. Afterwards we take a walk around town, the drummers are practicing away for carnival again, and it’s time to get some sleep.
   Our last day tomorrow, dinner at QG.

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## dadto6

Hope you both Enjoy your final moments in Paradise.  Thank you again for posting about your experiences.  Wish you safe travels.

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## PeterLynn

> I found out that we are only allowed 2 liters per person through customs.



As I understand it, the 2 liters is duty free. Anything above that requires a duty, which last I checked isn't much. I've brought back, and declared, quite a bit more and haven't been asked. FYI: The Havana Club is still banned. I think it is only legal now if brought back directly from Cuba. I took a chance a couple of years ago, and didn't have a problem. I made sure to pack it separately in case they confiscated it. Makes great mojito's and daiquiris by the way.

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## KevinS

Regarding US Customs and rum, just tell them the truth.  You can actually bring back much more, subject to paying Duty.   Given the small amount of Duty due, they will usually waive the Duty.  If you actually have to pay Duty it will be just a few dollars.  Youre talking a few bottles.  Thats one thing.  If you were talking a case or mire then that would be different.

The Havana Club, for personal consumption, is legal now, as are Cuban cigars for personal consumption.

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