# Other Places Around The World > France Travel Forum >  >  Advice Needed: Cote d'Azur and Provence

## Bart -my real name-

Hey folks -
   Long time, no talk.  Tragically, I have no SBH trips planned but I'm looking to take trip to the Mother Ship.  

My daughter is doing a semester abroad in Lugano, Switzerland and part of the program allows them to take a week to ten day trips wherever they want to travel.  I'm going to join her on one of her breaks and we want hit up the Cote d'Azur and Provence.  The problem is, I've never been there and have no idea what to hit, what to skip and where all the cool stuff is!!  I have the Lonely Planet guide book for Provence and Cote d'Azur, but damn near everything in it sounds great!!!

I'd like to do the coast as well as inland/the countryside.  I'll be over there in late March/early April which I think is too early for beach lounging, but maybe good for outdoor lunches near the beach?  I'll probably have around a week to travel.

The current plan is to start in Nice and work our way west to Marseille and then up to Aix-en-Provence and then over to Arles to vibe on the Van Gogh scene.  I'd like to do some physical stuff (as simple as a walk on the beach, to hikes along cliffs or through some naturals areas), some long lunches and dinners (not Michelin 3 Star meals, but more mom and pop places or quaint little seaside joints.....think more La Gloriette vs. L'Esprit), see some local culture/art museums and mostly interact with the people (stroll the streets, hit some shops, see the country side, etc).  My tastes run more bohemian than opulent and swanky.

The questions I have are:

1)  How much time should I spend along the coast?  (I realize I can easily spend a week in Nice! but I'd like to hit the highlights and see as much variety as possible without being on a go go go whirlwind)
2)  Are there any coastal cities/towns that I MUST see or MUST skip?  (As in see Cannes but skip San Tropez, or spend more time in Nice than Marseille)
2a)  Should I visit Monaco?  How long should I budget?
3)  If it happens to be unseasonably warm is there a certain area (like a sheltered cove) where the water may be warmer and wind may be less so swimming may be possible?
4)  Is it best to have a home base and do day trips along the coast or travel west to east?
5)  Should I get a car or just rely on public transportation (for the coastal segments)?
6)  Restaurant and museum advice is always welcome (for instance I was just listening to a podcast on Cote d'Azur and the host was talking about Nice, i think, and her advice was, "if you only have time for one museum, skip the Matisse museum and visit the Chagall museum"

One for Cassidian -

7) Should I plan to visit/stay in Cassis!?!?!

Away from the coast:

8)  What cities/villages should I hit?  I read that Aix has a boho vibe which appeals to me.  And back to aforementioned podcast, the host was surprised that the guest (a recent traveler to the area didn't visit Eze)
9)  Is it worth a trip to Arles for Van Gogh?  I *think* some things should be blooming in late March(?)
10)  Are there any great driving routes that will take us through countryside, through some small villages?  Your basic scenic route!
11)  I imagine a car is required for what I'm discussing?

Any other suggestions for off the beaten track sites of activities would be appreciated.....Like a great cooking class, or great little restaurant that you'd pass right by if you didn't know better, any local dishes or specialties (think Manu's tomato tarte at Santa Fe.  RIP)

Sorry to bombard you all with so many questions, but the France forum has been a little too quiet lately, and I'm just trying pump things up a bit!

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## amyb

all sounds good.  I loved the walk to the top of Eze, Avignon so much more than a bridge, streets of Arles and now I think the restoration of the amphitheater and Roman ruins is completed Just things I thought of right away. Grasse, Antibes, oh so much!!

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## PeterLynn

Also thinking of a Provence trip another year or so away. Am reading some good books on the region by Peter Mayle. A bit dated by publication, but probably not by Provence standards.

The first is "A year in Provence" - https://www.amazon.com/Year-Provence...9212478&sr=8-1. Gives a sense of the people and the pace of small hill towns inland. The sequel is good so far, but repeats somewhat.

I really enjoyed another of his "Provence A-Z" - https://www.amazon.com/Provence-Z-Fr...212785&sr=8-17. Covers regional topics, from A to Z. Enjoyable, but also factual. Will re-read with notebook in hand.

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## Bart -my real name-

Thanks to both of you!!!!

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## NancySC

Oh my, you need far more days than the number you have for that area along the coast just Monaco to St Tropez if you were to go that far & or up to Avignon.  Scale back is my recommendation & make return visits, yes, plural.  For any beaches, sand will be a rarity, think pebbles to rocks, not flip flops or barefoot.  I would choose 1 place to stay for either the entire # of days, think wheel & spokes for your sightseeing or split between 2 places, same idea.  Monaco is lovely, 1 full day is all you need for the palace, the aquarium, some shopping & lovely lunch.  Twice there but years ago with the Monaco Tourism Bureau during the celebration of the principality with flags flying, magnificent window displays of Prince Ranier, Princess Grace etc, flowers galore, spectacular fireworks from the top of 1 of THE hotels by the harbour.  Eze yes, on a Windstar cruise we took a couple of buses to go to St Paul de Vence, charming village & the Maight museum, perhaps snag a lunch reservation at Colombe ?  That's only 2 places, now I must get out to pick daffodils at the Upick where I live in SC near Hilton Head before the predicted 30 degree mornings visit us.  Good reading !

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## amyb

Colombe dor and Paul Bocuse were my favorite lunch stops on that trip.we drove from Cannes to Lyon and back to Paris.

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## stbartshopper

Reservations are needed far in advance throughout the area you mentioned. For us Eze and Positano are must stops. If you haven’t done it, the ruins from the volcano eruption in Pompeo are well worth your time.  We like St. Tropez over Cannes. Aix is fun and parts are ‘quirky’ to use your word. With limited time, we suggest you pass up Nice. If you are going to drive the coast there, it can be challenging with all of the big tour buses on the narrow, winding roads and the driver doesn’t get to see much. You might splurge on a driver. Monte Carlo is interesting but the other locales to us are more interesting. Even though it is touristy, Capri is worth a trip over if time permits.

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## Bart -my real name-

Thanks Nancy, Amy and Hopper!  This is exactly the type of advice I was looking for!!!





> Oh my, you need far more days than the number you have for that area along the coast just Monaco to St Tropez if you were to go that far & or up to Avignon.  Scale back is my recommendation



Nancy - does your advice still hold if actual beach/water time is not in the cards?  I'm assuming there we be no real beach time....chair, book, sun tan lotion, etc.  I think it will be too early in the season for any of that, so do you think that would allow me to see more and travel further?  Or is there enough to see and do without basking in the sun for hours?

Hopper - is there a city that you would recommend if we skipped Nice?

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## NancySC

> Colombe d’or and Paul Bocuse were my favorite lunch stops on that trip.we drove from Cannes to Lyon and back to Paris.



  Lucky to get in, no time & no reservation for us, but such a sweet village, think I misspelled Maeght before.  Oops on me !  
And I picked 50 daffodils earlier today, great excercise just not ez walking in the ruts made by tractor tires & on the watch for ants & any reptiles while picking & counting along the way, yesterday 80 today 55.  That was a great picture of the Star ship !

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## NancySC

> Reservations are needed far in advance throughout the area you mentioned. For us Eze and Positano are must stops. If you haven’t done it, the ruins from the volcano eruption in Pompeo are well worth your time.  We like St. Tropez over Cannes. Aix is fun and parts are ‘quirky’ to use your word. With limited time, we suggest you pass up Nice. If you are going to drive the coast there, it can be challenging with all of the big tour buses on the narrow, winding roads and the driver doesn’t get to see much. You might splurge on a driver. Monte Carlo is interesting but the other locales to us are more interesting. Even though it is touristy, Capri is worth a trip over if time permits.




Hopper, did you mean Pompeii rather than the Att'y General ?  or is there only one 'i' ?  will you PM me your email, we're doing a cruise in Oct. that includes Sorrento, Capri & Positano, can I pick your brain ?  In Nice having lunch by the market I still remember seeing the bride & groom going into a nearby building for their ceremony, and residents & visitors going crazy about a soccer game that Italy won, and having dinner at a beachside restaurant the evening of the day we got off of the Windsurf & the seeing it sail out again during our dinner so I have fond memories of our time in Nice !

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## NancySC

> Thanks Nancy, Amy and Hopper!  This is exactly the type of advice I was looking for!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Nancy - does your advice still hold if actual beach/water time is not in the cards?  I'm assuming there we be no real beach time....chair, book, sun tan lotion, etc.  I think it will be too early in the season for any of that, so do you think that would allow me to see more and travel further?  Or is there enough to see and do without basking in the sun for hours?
> 
> Hopper - is there a city that you would recommend if we skipped Nice?



Bart...beach I would skip to see/do other more important things unless you must dip toes in the Mediterranean...
I have a book that I wrote date in when purchased...11/16/02  France's Best-Loved Driving Tours...Frommer's Fourth Edition...The South of France has 4 different tours/routes with itinerary for each tour, # if days for each, town by town with km/mi for going town to town...I hope this is still in publication, it's the guide you need to make decisions about what to do, where to go in the time you have alotted.  I am not a big museum person nor is my husband so you'll have to decide.  For Arles we were on a riverboat trip & had most of the day there...it was a holiday so was very crowded with locals from near & far plus the couple river boats, horseback riders in native costumes & finery, our local, but of German heritage guide was surprised that places were closed...check for holidays that fall during your travel time, can make big difference.  Do get a driver as said before so that both of you can enjoy your time together & where you go.  You can't see it all in one trip, do more research as to where to go in the limited time you have, make a list of most important, but leave wiggle time to leave some things to chance..within reason.  Lots of info online from many sources.  Look at tourism offices for the towns/places that you think will interest you & your daughter...lucky to be in Lugano, lovely little city on the water.  Good luck, & start planning, spring is when schools have vacations as you know & they travel too so you may see groups from all over Europe..school kids, all ages.  Oh flowers bloom yes that time of year...keep asking questions, will answer !

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## Bart -my real name-

Thanks Nancy!!  I just ordered the 8 edition from 2011.

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## stbartshopper

Nancy- yes Pompeii not the Atty General! LOL!
Bart- Nice to Beaulieu sur Mer is about a 20 minute drive. Stay at la Reserve de Beaulieu but you will need a little dress up for dinner there. You can drive into Nice if you want.
https://www.reservebeaulieu.com
I also suggest one or two nights at le Club de Cavaliere, which is right on the beach and about two hours drive from Nice. We drove into St. Tropez while staying at Cavaliere so we had both city and peacefulness of the beach
https://www.clubdecavaliere.com/en/
Dining at le Chateau de la Chèvre d'Or- again dressy and stuffy- I think three Michelin stars now. Amy mentioned EZE which is the City worth visiting and the location of the restaurant.
and in Positano, Italy, which I know you didn't ask about Bart, our favorite place to stay is Il San Pietro
http://www.ilsanpietro.it/en/index.php
Warning- all of these places require advance reservations both for the hotels and their restaurants even if you are staying there.- sometimes a year ahead of time.
Good luck and Bon Voyage to all.

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## NancySC

> Thanks Nancy!!  I just ordered the 8 edition from 2011.



  Great, think it will help you alot, but you also might look for a travel consultant who specializes in this area.  And Hopper's ideas are good ones...

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## NancySC

> Nancy- yes Pompeii not the Atty General! LOL!
> Bart- Nice to Beaulieu sur Mer is about a 20 minute drive. Stay at la Reserve de Beaulieu but you will need a little dress up for dinner there. You can drive into Nice if you want.
> https://www.reservebeaulieu.com
> I also suggest one or two nights at le Club de Cavaliere, which is right on the beach and about two hours drive from Nice. We drove into St. Tropez while staying at Cavaliere so we had both city and peacefulness of the beach
> https://www.clubdecavaliere.com/en/
> Dining at le Chateau de la Chèvre d'Or- again dressy and stuffy- I think three Michelin stars now. Amy mentioned EZE which is the City worth visiting and the location of the restaurant.
> and in Positano, Italy, which I know you didn't ask about Bart, our favorite place to stay is Il San Pietro
> http://www.ilsanpietro.it/en/index.php
> Warning- all of these places require advance reservations both for the hotels and their restaurants even if you are staying there.- sometimes a year ahead of time.
> Good luck and Bon Voyage to all.




NancySC & Doug are going to Positano, not Bart, he doesn't have time to go there too !  We'll be on a cruise in fall.

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## Bart -my real name-

Thanks Hopper!  Great stuff.....and this little adventure is wide open.  My plan was to spend a couple days with her in Lugano while she still has class. After that she and her friends will be spending 3 days in Greece (I'm not invited!). When they're in Greece, I was planning on hitting Milan and then working my way back north and west toward Nice, etc.  That said, I just looked up Positano and I think that is a little too far out of the way for this trip!  

But thanks again for the tips!

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## stbartshopper

You are welcome Bart.

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## Jim A

Nice is a good home base for day trips. We stayed at the Hotel Suisse. Room was great and it was right at the end of the Promenade and at the foot of the "Old Town" and no car was needed around Nice. This was our view (not my pic, it was quicker to find one on the internet). I'd recommend a higher floor if you choose this place.


Question #2: spend an afternoon in Eze. We found it absolutely beautiful, from the views to the way some of the stores are built into the rock and if you want a "splurge lunch", one of the greatest views I've seen was at La Chevre D'Or. We weren't really able to make a reservation because we weren't sure what time we would be there so instead of lunch we just sat out on the terrace in the bar next to the resto and had a bottle of Rose with meat/cheese plate but it was the exact same terrace and view. Les Jardin Exotique was also great for views/pics. A few hours is all that is needed in Eze. 
https://www.chevredor.com/restaurant.../les-remparts/

Take a trip into Monaco for a few hours. Just seeing the cars around the Casino is worth it. Some amazing restos. As you would expect very expensive. We ate at La Vistamar out on the terrace. It was fantastic but made St Barth seem inexpensive. Again, a few hours is all that's needed. Go have a martini in the casino (like everyone else) but the casino itself is small and incredibly disappointing. Don't expect to actually gamble there. Even the semi-private back room isn't much better. You can also take the train into Italy form Nice if you want.

One night we ate at an incredibly casual place in Nice. They are pretty much known for their duck. I wouldn't order anything else if you go. It was casual and the duck was a huge messy plate of probably the best duck I have had...let me stress the messy part again. The experience was so unlike the rest of our trip. It is a husband (chef) and wife (everything else) team. They are quirky but sincere. The resto was small and crowded and tight but it lent itself to speaking with others seated nearby you. It really was a great dinner but probably it isn't for everyone. We loved it

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaura...r.html#REVIEWS

A note about our trip. We were there for the World Cup so that added an extra level of excitement. We sat out at one of the outdoor cafes and watched one of the French matches. It was mobbed and crazy at times and you could hear a pin drop at other times. We weren't there long enough to do all of the things that we wanted and are looking forward to going back. We wanted to go to Cannes and St Tropez and head into the "country" for a day trip to a vineyard or just for a different experience but just didn't have the time. We ubered a lot and took the bus and train it worked pretty well. If you get further from the Nice area a car is likely needed (I assume). Please report back on your trip and what you liked/didn't.

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## Bart -my real name-

Thanks Jim!  Great stuff!   I'm going to be all over that restaurant for the duck!

I'll be sure to report back!

Thanks again,
Bart

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## stbartshopper

We were in Italy for the World Cup years ago. As events happened, cheers and groans were heard from literally blocks or buildings away all around us.

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## NancySC

Bart if you go to the casino, you should check now about what the proper attire is to gain entrance even for the bar. Hope the book I suggested has been helpful for your planning.  Wondering why south of France when there is so much to see in the Lugano area ?

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## Jim A

> Bart if you go to the casino, you should check now about what the proper attire is to gain entrance even for the bar. Hope the book I suggested has been helpful for your planning.  Wondering why south of France when there is so much to see in the Lugano area ?



And pay special attention to the attire as per the time of the day. I must have sifted through conflicting information for hours and hours on the proper attire so as to not get turned away. I was particularly concerned about the comments about men being required to wear a jacket. Some locations stated jackets required for men; some people said they or others entered in jean shorts and t shirts (I didn't see anyone that casual) and It did seem as if it was more "dressy" at night from everything I read. But the more i researched the more it got confusing because nothing was consistent. As an FYI from my personal experience, we went after dinner and I don't remember exactly what others were wearing, I know at least some were "only" in golf shirts and nice shorts. We were dressed pretty nicely (nice pants and button down dress shirt for me and a dress for GM) but I did not have a jacket on and am not sure if anyone else did either. I wouldn't risk shorts or short sleeves if at night out of being cautious (and definitely not if you want to pay another fee to enter the "semi-private" casino in the back, but they probably would not turn you away if that was how you were dressed. It just seemed they were mostly just concerned with collecting the fee from people to enter.

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## NancySC

When family was on cruise including Monaco, the husband wore a tux to gamble at the casino !

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## Bart -my real name-

> Bart if you go to the casino, you should check now about what the proper attire is to gain entrance even for the bar. Hope the book I suggested has been helpful for your planning.  Wondering why south of France when there is so much to see in the Lugano area ?



It's more to accommodate my daughter.  She's actually doing the first few days of her break in Greece (or Croatia....not determined yet!!).  The current plan is to do Nice and Cote d'Azur (and maybe some inland stuff) for 4 or 5 days and then either hit Milan on the way back, or somewhere in Switzerland, and then while she's back in class, I'll do the Lugano region for a day or two during the days, and meet up with her for dinner.  That's a very rough sketch.  I need to really dig into the planning, but flights are booked so at least that part is firmed up.

But if you have any info or tips on the Lugano area, I'm all ears.  Thanks!

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## Bart -my real name-

> And pay special attention to the attire as per the time of the day. I must have sifted through conflicting information for hours and hours on the proper attire so as to not get turned away. I was particularly concerned about the comments about men being required to wear a jacket. Some locations stated jackets required for men; some people said they or others entered in jean shorts and t shirts (I didn't see anyone that casual) and It did seem as if it was more "dressy" at night from everything I read. But the more i researched the more it got confusing because nothing was consistent. As an FYI from my personal experience, we went after dinner and I don't remember exactly what others were wearing, I know at least some were "only" in golf shirts and nice shorts. We were dressed pretty nicely (nice pants and button down dress shirt for me and a dress for GM) but I did not have a jacket on and am not sure if anyone else did either. I wouldn't risk shorts or short sleeves if at night out of being cautious (and definitely not if you want to pay another fee to enter the "semi-private" casino in the back, but they probably would not turn you away if that was how you were dressed. It just seemed they were mostly just concerned with collecting the fee from people to enter.



Jim/Nancy -
    How much of a "must do" is the casino?  I'm not a gambler (I spend 4 and half days in Vegas with some college buddies last year and never placed a bet or played the slots!), so I won't be hitting the tables, but I assume the grandeur of the place is the draw?  What do you do there and how long does it take if you're not betting?!?!?   

Thanks!

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## Jim A

IMO, I guess I would have to say that the Casino itself really isn't a "must do". I am "a gambler" and didn't sit down at all to play and barely felt the urge too because the tables at the casino are for lack of a better word, horrible, and there are so few of them and the people that are playing seemed to have no idea how to play properly. If you are going to  Monaco anyway I would go in because it really is beautiful outside and inside and it is great to stop in for a drink and a look around (it's tiny). The biggest draw to me was the obscene amount of high end cars in front of the Casino - so many Rolls Royces, Ferraris, Lambos, Bentleys, etc that you could even count them. I'd say if you don't gamble it would take about as long as it takes to drink one Martini to see the Casino. But walking around in front and by the Port behind the casino took a while for us and was enjoyable. It really was a beautiful area and we had an incredible dinner there. Be careful because public transportation back to Nice doesn't run all night and UBER is not allowed in Monaco. You can walk up to the hill back into France and then call, but we were unable to get an UBER to respond that way and had to opt for a very expensive cab ride back to Nice after over an hour of trying to get an UBER.

As far as going to the South of France or not. Absolutely 100% go. It is one of the most popular destinations in the World for a reason and the views and photo ops from many of the areas are just extraordinary.

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## NancySC

> It's more to accommodate my daughter.  She's actually doing the first few days of her break in Greece (or Croatia....not determined yet!!).  The current plan is to do Nice and Cote d'Azur (and maybe some inland stuff) for 4 or 5 days and then either hit Milan on the way back, or somewhere in Switzerland, and then while she's back in class, I'll do the Lugano region for a day or two during the days, and meet up with her for dinner.  That's a very rough sketch.  I need to really dig into the planning, but flights are booked so at least that part is firmed up.
> 
> But if you have any info or tips on the Lugano area, I'm all ears.  Thanks!




Bart, PM me your schedule if you like so I can take a look at it.  You may be trying to go too many places in too short a time.  Are you renting a car or not ?  Just learned something today while reading recent issue of FRANCE magazine I subscribe to about US drivers licenses. The casino...I was part of a small group of travel consultants touring under the auspices of the Monaco Tourism Dept. that took us to Grasse, Eze, St Paul de Vence. Our base at the Metropole in Monaco, off season, but during the anniversary of the principality so special trip in many ways.  The time in the casino was at night, don't recall anyone in our group gambling.  Not my thing anyway.  Crossing a street is a gamble for me & now that writing that I tripped over the same speed bump in front of our hotel both times visiting Monaco !

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## Bart -my real name-

Thanks Nancy!  I'll send you a note.

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## gilbe006

Bart - glad you have a plan to visit her!!  Not to be a debbie downer, but Milan, and areas outside the city, maybe a place she should avoid.  This is coming from the nurse in me.  Have a great time!

Look forward to reading your trip report.

Charlotte

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## stbartshopper

Bart
You said your trip would be in late March and early April. What impact, if any, has the Corona Virus had on yours and your family’s travel plans?

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## Bart -my real name-

Thanks for checking in Charlotte and Hopper!

My trip is cancelled for the time being.  My daughter's program was shut down last week and she flew home on March 13.  At Customs at Dulles they asked her where she had traveled recently.  She told them:  Italy/Milan, Portugal, Spain, and Switzerland.....all countries on Level III alerts.  

The Customs officer only asked if she was feeling well, (she was) but gave no other advice or information on self quarantining or changing her behavior in any way.  Totally fills me with confidence.

We've all been staying home for everything except dog walks!

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## NancySC

Bart, glad to know what became of the intended jaunt with your daughter & that she's ok, hopefully you will be able to do that trip in the future or start planning another for months ahead once we get thru this uncertain time.

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## amyb

Glad you have her home safely. There well may be another jaunt in your future and you get to plan all over again.

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## Bart -my real name-

Thanks ladies!  I'm enjoying having both kids home on an extended spring break.  On the other hand, I have somehow become a short order cook!

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## amyb

Amazing appetites those teens have!

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## stbartshopper

Bart
After all of your planning and communications regarding your possible trip, are you still considering a journey in maybe 2022 to France and Italy?

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