# St Barts Forums > St Barts Trip Reports Forum >  >  May visit 2019

## PeterLynn

Sixth visit to the island and the fifth on Flamands. After a mad dash, sub-hour connection, in ATL and the tent city in SXM last year, decided to give Tradewind a try. Wonderful experience. Fortunately we have a direct flight from IAH to SJU, which eliminated one connection. Arrived around 3:45 and after an hour-ish wait in the lounge, were escorted out to an otherwise empty plane. Turns out we had our own private charter! Flight was smooth and in an hour we were arcing over saline with what turned out to be our first over water landing. Captured some great video. As the last flight of the day, everyone from the gendarme to Odile seemed anxious get us on our way so that they could head home. Who could blame them! While we love the sun, surf and evenings at some great restaurants, we always find dusk a special time with the warm hues and the hustle and bustle as activities and routines shift from day to night.

With the villa unavailable until Saturday, and no real reason to spend Friday in San Juan, we booked a single night in the Sunset in Gustavia. Nice place. Inexpensive and centrally located. Definitely consider them again when a single night is needed. Washed up and headed next door for a delicious meal of moules marinieres et frites at Le Repaire. Wonderful way to start the trip. Took a stroll along the quay to Le Select where a couple of hours were spent with a bottle of rose in the midst of what seemed like most of the island "millennials". Good fun.

This morning, we headed over to Le Creperie, which didn't open until 10:30, so we strolled over to Choisy for petite dejuner. Back to the hotel, we checked out and loaded up the Jimny (none of them seem to have spare tires on the back anymore???) and dropped our luggage off at SiBarth to take on to the villa. With the freed up space, we stopped at Segeco for our annual case of VC. 225 euros for 6! Headed up to Lurin and Santa Fe to check on the rumors of their summer closing. Turns out they are open until June 15, so lunch for next week is back on. Dropped down to gouverneurs, because the drive never gets old. After several more stops, we ended up in St Jean for some "leche-vitrine" and a first-time lunch at Kiki-e-mo. Very low key, nice friendly service and delicious durade burger all while watching the stream of taxis dropping off Nikki newbies across the road. With the clock ticking toward the magic 3:00 hour, stopped at Pearl Beach for Apperol Spritzers. About mid-way through Bikini Saturday, the text finally arrived that announced the villa was ready! Quick detour to the Marche for supplies (Rose, ice, coffee, rose, water and more rose) and we are soon "Home".

This evening we had our annual stroll down the beach to La Langouste for the official "First Meal". So looking forward to Benjamin, but alas, he left the island a week ago. While the service was every bit as good, his laugh and energy will be sorely missed. Based on forum recommendations, had the sole, which was absolutely wonderful. Can't believe I have never ordered it before! Wife had the delicious and incredibly rich Langouste Tagliatelles. With the restaurant filling up, we finished and made reservations for our "Last Meal". Shared Langouste Grilee??

Some initial thoughts. Lot's of villa and infrastructure construction everywhere, but less frantic than last year. Sort of strange, but the Island seemed very quiet. Not as much traffic nor activity at the airport. Maybe it's just me. What is quite obvious though is how brown everything is. Odile said it's been five months without significant rainfall. Forecast shows rain on Sunday. Being a "villa day", I'd love sun, but won't be sad if it pours. The place desperately needs it.

A few pictures:

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## amyb

Welcome back. Everything seems fine and dandy. Your news of SF still being open for business for a while thrilled me. They have excellent Dover Sole there too. The chicken dish is also fantastic.  Just sayin', did not mean to hijack your post.

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## dadto6

Thank you for the great reporting.  Pictures are fabulous. Wish you both a wonderful time in paradise!  Enjoy the VC

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## GMP62

Great first post on your arrival “home”!  Loved the detail and your pictures. Will look forward to your daily VC photos and postings to come!

Gayle

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## PeterLynn

Villa Day. 

Stocked up yesterday, but apparently nobody cooks at the VDD as there isn't even salt and pepper here. Thus, a morning run is in order. Stopped at Petite Columbe for baguettes before heading to the Marche, which isn't open yet. Guess the vacation has begun as the days are starting to blur (two days in!) Time to kill, we drove around St Jean and the hills above, taking in some spectacular views. Could have kept exploring but we can hear Flamand's waves calling, so back to a now crowded Marche (the locals sure have their timing down) and a handful of essentials. Free from the chaos, we had back and spend the rest of the morning and afternoon on floats with a Kindle in one hand and glass of chilled Clos Beylesse in the other. Clouds start to fill in close to (our) dinner time, so a quick shower and it's time to fire up the grill for entrecotes, leftover langouste tagliatelles and a nice Bourgogne. 

A few pictures:

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## KevinS

For future reference, Epicerie de Corossol, the small grocery near Au Regal, opens at 06:30 Mon-Sat and 07:00 on Sundays and holidays.  El Bravo Mini Market, near Chez Yvon in Anse des Cayes opens at 06:00 Mon-Sat, and 08:00 on Sundays and Holidays.  They're both small, but they're the earliest opening grocery stores. 

I've  found the receipt for my case of Saint-Barth Veuve Clicquot Arrows.  It was higher than the €225 which you paid for the regular case, €275 for 6 bottles.  That's probably the last case of Arrows which I'll buy.  I've got enough for any conceivable personal use, so it's either stop buying them or start selling them.

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## Jim Kelly-Evans

beautiful photos!

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## PeterLynn

> I've  found the receipt for my case of Saint-Barth Veuve Clicquot Arrows.



I got a single arrow last year and I thought I'd won the lottery. Not sure what I'd do with six more.

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## 24loar

Where in the bowels of the website are the instructions for turning a tiny thumbnail photo into the nice large photos shown here? Thanks to the
technologically enlightened! signed: J. Luddite

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## KevinS

> Where in the bowels of the website are the instructions for turning a tiny thumbnail photo into the nice large photos shown here? Thanks to the
> technologically enlightened! signed: J. Luddite



Try here.  The post is pinned at the top of the main forum.
https://www.sbhonline.com/forums/sho...oid-PC-Mac-too

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## GramChop

Ahhhh....St Barth!  Your photos and recaps are lowering my blood pressure as I type.  Thank you for sharing and keep 'em coming!!

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## Toni

As I count the days until our departure, I'm delighted to read your musings... and I'm especially happy to hear that the Santa Fe closing isn't until June 15th.
Thanks, Peter and Lynn!
Keep enjoying!

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## PeterLynn

Gouverneurs and Santa Fe

After a quick breakfast of toasted baguettes and Malo yoghurt, we pack up the Jimny and head to Gouverneur. Love sitting in the sun looking out over the amazing blues, but have always struggled getting an umbrella to stay anchored with the always strong breezes. Few months back read a post or two about a beach umbrella that breaks down to fit in a suitcase. Bought it and bingo! Works like a charm. Has small bags to fill with sand and ties to the umbrella. Probably 5-10 minutes to set up and even has a small table. Wife is very happy now. Better than roses on valentines day.

As the noon hour approaches, we pack up and head up the hill to Santa Fe. Wonderful views and breezes. With a chilled rose to enjoy, we could sit there the rest of the day. But I have a mission, which is to try the Sole Meuniere. Absolutely wonderful. Hard to compare with the one I had at La Langouste. David's is richer, while La Langouste is bit more citrusy. Fortunately there are enough days to enjoy both.

Two hours later, we head back to villa for some poolside reading and then a pre-dinner race down past the Cheval Blanc to catch the sunset. Quick change of clothes and we are headed up the hill to Les Bananiers for Fermiere pizza - Goat cheese, lardons and honey. Bites were taken before pictures, so excuse us. 

Satiated, we head back down the hill for the first VC toast of the vacation, including one to Rosemond's recovery.

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## Tiffany

These pics make me a little jealous. Sounds like a great day!  I remember reading about that umbrella...what brand is it?  Thanks!  Have a great time in paradise.

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## PeterLynn

> I remember reading about that umbrella...what brand is it?



 Too tired to run out to the Jimny last night. It's a PortaBrella. They have a new version, but they were out of stock, so I ordered the original. Had to get the anchor sandbags (absolutely necessary) and the folding table.

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## amyb

Love the sunset. Well, the Dover Sole too!

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## GMP62

Wonderful photos and reporting. Keep enjoying and posting. It gets those of us not on the island through our work day!

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## GramChop

Y'all have this vacation thing down PAT!  Great photos and enjoyable reads.  I'm so happy you share this with us back home.

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## cec1

Great photos & great reporting!  It's fun to be part of your trip.

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## sbhlvr

Love your reports. We arrive on the 26th. Maybe we will see you out and about on the island. I will definitely check out that umbrella as it is a necesscity for us

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## PeterLynn

Thanks for all the wonderful comments.

Tuesday was a mostly villa day. Morning run to the March turned into a tour of the east side of the island. Drove to the end of the Flamands road and checked out the lower trail to Columbier. Have yet to do the hike and considered it, but alas don't have proper shoes. L'annee prochaine, peut-etre. Driving up from Flamands, decided to turn right and head up the point overlooking Columbier. Definitely not trying the high trail. After taking in the views, contemplated the "death road" again (quite the thrill last year), but swung down into Corossol instead. Over the hill into Public, up around the Tourmente and then pulled into the Marche parking lot. A quick stroll along St Jean to check out Lil Rock, as it was totally forgotten the other day. Looks interesting. Jack-hammering at Eden Rock caught our attention, so decided to see how it is progressing. So much work going on across the entire complex. Can't imagine it being completely ready in six months, nor imagine anyone wanting to "relax" on the loungers set up on the narrow strip of sand. Back at the villa, the femme de menage has come and gone, so rather than setting up nearby on the beach, we spread out poolside.

Dinner at Orega tonight, and with the sunset looks promising, we get ready to head up to the lighthouse. About six, the skies open up and it's one of those 10 minute downpours. Not enough to fill the cistern, but enough to put the Jimny into FWD. A bit early for our reservation, so we decide to climb up the hill for cocktails at Bonito. Wife isn't much of a seafood eater, so we've never been, but such a beautiful restaurant. Enjoyed a tropical concoction and a ti punch as evening settled in over the harbor below. Contemplated another round, but decided against it and strolled down the hill and around the corner. Were met by Greg and Tuti with warms hugs and bissous. They are such amazing hosts. They started us off with a small sample of tuna topped with fois gras and a teriyaki reduction. yum. Next an amouse bouche vegetable soup dumpling (liquid inside, so to be eaten in a single bite). Our entrée is wagyu dumplings and St Jacques  carpaccio with shiso sorbet. For our plat, my wife had duck two ways - confit and breast - and I the Chilean Sea Bass. Desert is a "free fall berry" creation and the Yuzu Tarte. Truly amazing creations and the most creative presentations. Friday is their last night, Tuti and Clement and getting married next week, so we have been invited back for a cocktail or two. Love, love Orega.

Some photos:

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## amyb

Great photo and please offer my best wishes to the bride and groom.

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## stbartshopper

Peterlynn-
Thanks to you, we are living your dreams!

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## PeterLynn

Saline Wednesday

After some back and forth this morning, we headed out the long way to Saline - Flamands to Tourmente to St Jean to Lorient around Pt Milou through the cul-de-sacs, along Grand Fond, up the long hill, left on the correct road, another left along the other correct road, left at Tamarin, a stop at Grain de Sel for lunch reservations, into the parking lot, unload the Jimny, trudge up the trail, climb the hill and then THAT VIEW! 

Beach fairly occupied on the right, so we head left. Lot's of sargassum beginning about halfway, while none on the right, which is probably why it's "crowded". We are more beach than surf people, so it's good. Fancy travel umbrella survived Gouverneurs, but can it withstand Saline? Answer is a resounding YES!

Couple of hours later, our lunch reservation nears, so we pack up as the rain appears off shore. Been caught before, so we hurry through the unbearably hot sand (note to selves - wear shoes). Saline does extract a certain price, which is probably why we prefer Gouverneurs.

Surprisingly, the parking lot is completely full, which is unlike previous years. Maybe it's timing. Other beaches were probably empty. Drive the short distance to Grain de Sel where we are promptly seated. Been hit and miss in previous visits, so it has fallen out of the rotation. Usually the food has been fantastic, while the service lags or vice-versa. This year the service was good, considering they appeared short handed and a fairly full restaurant of mostly locals. I had the Durade with creole sauce, which was as fantastic as ever, but the wife's Thai chicken salad was over salted chicken. Dessert was skipped and we departed, "boite" of salad "sans poulet" in hand.

Quick stop at the Marche for Rose in anticipation of a poolside afternoon, except the rains arrive. Island needs it, so back at the villa we unload and sit back for some light reading. Restless, and with the rain stopping, decide to stop at the wine shop in public for the Japanese whiskey we had at Orega last night before heading into Gustavia for a little shopping and a glass of rose at Le Select. Find ourselves next to an adult family of daytrippers from St Martin, who peppered us with questions about Texas, the island and life in general. Enjoyable conversation despite one of the party's neon thong being distracting enough to attract the attention of the gendarmes, who told her to cover up. Always a fun time at Le Select.

Evening was spent enjoying grilled entrecotes, potatoes au gratin (thanks Google for helping us decipher the oven's graphics) and leftover chicken-less thai salad. After finishing a bottle of bourgogne, we took the chairs and a VC out to the beach with an almost black sky. Along the horizon, storm clouds appeared to be sliding along toward St Martin, while breaks in the clouds revealed several constellations. Today was a good day.

Some photos:

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## amyb

Definitely another good day.

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## shihadehs

Those day trippers must have been the intelligent bunch of folks we saw earlier on St. Jean beach who thought it would be fun to stand at the end of the runway and wave to the landing plane...they were then scattered by what is now a loud speaker set up at end of runway with a most urgent message warning them to leave..never heard that before...quite effective

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## cec1

Very interesting:  “Enjoyable conversation despite one of the party's neon thong being distracting enough to attract the attention of the gendarmes, who told her to cover up.”  Sounds like the visitor was demonstrating poor judgment, but it hasn’t been long since women AND men could be found eating at several beachfront restaurants in incredibly immodest thong beachwear.  Probably more tolerance for “distraction” at a beach venue.

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## PeterLynn

Think they had come from Nikki Beach where that was more normal, but in the heart of Gustavia apparently not so. I didn't witness the scolding, but my wife said it was a female Gendarme and she was very clear in her instructions.

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## cec1

Yes . . . anything goes at Nikki — not so much in “the city.”

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## Hawke

Are you a professional photographer? Those are incredibly sharp pictures.

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## PeterLynn

> Are you a professional photographer? Those are incredibly sharp pictures.



Thanks, but no. Upgraded to a Google Pixel XL at Christmas. Camera is really nice (much better than the wife's iPhone). Has a night lens, which is what i used to take the night shot of the big dipper. Just pointed it straight up and held still for about 5 seconds. Google does the rest.

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## amyb

Nicely done Peter

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## leep75

How is the foilage/vegetation at VDD coming along after the hurricane?  It looked pretty damaged in the summer of 2018 when we visited Flamands.  We truly loved staying there and loved the privacy those trees provided.

Also, @KevinS, if you're thinking of selling any of your arrows, please hit me up with a message.  I'd love one for my pool bar area.

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## PeterLynn

Sargassum to the left of me sargassum to the right of me, here I am stuck in the middle...

Nice sunrise this morning, but lot's of sargassum on Flamands. Sun sort of iffy. Took a chance and headed off to Gouverneurs for the morning. Beautiful all the way down to the beach and then ... Sargassum everywhere. Really bad up front, but ok further down. Decide to give it a try as nobody else around. Set up the chairs and super umbrella and settle in for the morning. Sun nice and hot, so we are good. Crew clearing it off and by the time they are near us, it is time for lunch back at the villa. Cloudy over Flamands, but not enough to not open a bottle of rose. 

About six, we clean up and head over to villa creole for some shopping and then over the hill to saline and a reservation at L'Esprit. New setting is amazing as is the food. I had the tuna tartare and Turbot, but the wife did one better with the duck spring rolls (OMG) and scallops with foies gras (OMG!, OMG!). Dessert was an incredible banana & pineapple meringue creation. As Herve our waiter said, "vous allez mourir". Hibiscus rhum accompanied the check. A kiss to Jean Claude and we are back to the villa. Final dessert is a scoop of mango-passion fruit sorbet from Petite Columbe doused in champagne with the waves crashing on the beach behind us.

Some photos:

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## KevinS

Yeah, the camera is working really well on that new Google Pixel XL phone.

The phrases "over the hill" and "up the hill" have special meaning to those of us who visit restaurants in Lurin and Saline, or who take the "Lurin Superhighway" home from town.

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## amyb

What a lovely dinner..great photos of tempting dishes

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## shihadehs

We were at L’Esprit also this evening..
The veal was amazing....our best meal of our 2 week stay

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## dadto6

Thank you for your wonderful reporting, loving every moment!

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## PeterLynn

> How is the foilage/vegetation at VDD coming along after the hurricane?  It looked pretty damaged in the summer of 2018 when we visited Flamands.  We truly loved staying there and loved the privacy those trees provided.



Foliage about the same as last year. Three of the palm trees survived Irma with one of them now leaning over. Vines (sea grapes?) are filling in from the empty lot next door. Wall provides the privacy now, but also blocks the view while sitting down. Do miss the old VDD.

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## PeterLynn

SBH Bucket list complete

Spurred on by fellow forum members, we don our least inappropriate footwear and head off to our first visit to Columbier. With bottles to photograph, decide to take the Jimny. If one hasn't been, turn left at the circle and continue on the road with the Auberge de a Petite Anse on the right. Signs make it appear that it may be a private road, but they are only referring to the hotel parking. Probably takes 100 yards or more off the hike. Overall things weren't bad at all as steps have been fashioned in many of the more difficult areas. Twenty minutes in and we were overlooking beautiful blue water edged by bright white sand.
 Six or seven sailboats and a small yacht are scattered around with several dinghies on shore. Probably about a dozen people on the beach or snorkeling, including a crew setting up for their client's lunch. We followed the flat road toward the Rockefeller dock and strolled back along the beach. Didn't bring chairs, so after lingering for maybe thirty minutes, we headed back to the villa. Still partial to Gouverveurs, but this might be the prettiest of all the beaches. Rubber soled sandals ended up a non-issue, so I highly recommend visiting Columbier at least once. Make sure to bring water as it gets pretty hot, even at 9 am. 

With the maid finished, went out to the pool with dictionary in hand to read through the various journals picked up at the Marche. Saw in "Le News" that Chez Relonde's lunch special is curried durade. Have passed by this place dozens of times, but never stopped. Decided today is a day of firsts, so about noon, put on our shoes and take a short stroll down the road. Very low-key and comfortable with two tables of locals enjoying their meal amid lively conversation. After this morning hike, two ice cold Caribs really hit the spot. Both durades (curried and grilled) were excellent as was the accompanied rice and complementary rhum maison (vanille et passion). Rest of the day was spent poolside enjoying a chilled magnum of Clos Beylesse. Always hesitated buying one as it's a bit more expensive than two regular bottles, but had to do it. Another item checked off the list.

Pre-sunset stroll down to the Cheval Blanc and back. Can't imagine that their guests are the least bit happy with all the hammering going on at the old Taiwana. I know we are not thrilled at our end, but then we aren't paying those prices. Planned on heading into town for the "Rain Dance" and drinks for Orega's closing, but another Clos Beylesse put a stop to that. Dinner is thus grilled steak and brie sandwiches in the villa. Dessert is the rest of the previous night's sorbet with the next to last VC.

Some photos:

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## amyb

Love reading your diary.

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## cec1

Great writing!  AND photos!  Courses at L'Esprit especially captured beautifully.  Always a pleasure to see a post from you.

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## PeterLynn

Post-magnum day. 

After all the exercise and rose yesterday, a slow start to the morning. Rain clouds are forming by eleven, so we head up the hill while it is less difficult and over to Gustavia for some shopping. Finally located some of the locally carved heart sculptures, although a bit pricey for mid-trip. As the final week progresses, our wallets will start to lighten and one will likely be purchased. 

Lunch hour arrives, so we head over to St Jean to give Lil Rock a try. Nice place. Toes in the sand, but a bit lower key than Pearl Beach next door. Order a Minuty (hair of the dog and all that) and a shared "Assiette Creole" - Accras & creole sauce, stuffed crab, a small salad and a black sausage. Seen the latter on menus and am glad I tried it, but probably not again. Mostly the squishy texture. For the plat, they have a "Trilogie de la Mer" that we also shared. Half of a lobster, mahi mahi and skewered shrimp, all grilled. Nice idea. Allowed me to have the Mahi Mahi, the wife the shrimp and lobster for both of us. Restaurant really begins to fill up, so we skip dessert and head over to the Marche for a few things. 

Back at the villa the sky has cleared somewhat so out come the Kindles until it's time to take in the sunset down past the Cheval Blanc. Dinner is grilled chicken and tagliatelles with a nice Chablis.

A few photos:

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## amyb

Another dandy day!

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## PeterLynn

Fete de Maman

Low key day. Quick run up the hill for baguettes and viennoiserie (discovered earlier that this is the correct name for croissants and pain au chocolate, etc...) and back down again to eat them. Since last year, they have lined the road with bollards, so no more parking on the sidewalks and with the fete de maman today, went a bit early to try an avoid the crowds. Got a spot right out front, but leaving was a lot trickier. 

No maid today, so we grabbed towels and kindles and headed outside. Lot's of people on the beach all day, easily the most we've seen all week. Some families, but mostly couples. Sun pretty intense, so we open a magnum of Rock Angel. On sale for 40 euros at the wine store in Gustavia (across from the AMC)! About the cost of a single bottle back home, so contemplating squeezing one in the suitcase.

Mid-afternoon, storm clouds appear to the east, so we pack up and head inside. Just for show as they slide off toward St Martin obscuring the islands north of us. Back outside along with about 20-30 clusters of beachgoers. Lot's of activity both in and out of the water. Sun setting so we showered and begin preparing filet minon du porc slathered with mustard and rolled in bread crumbs. Took much longer to cook than anticipated, so we must have been off on our Fahrenheit to Celsius conversion. Ended the day with the last bottle of VC out the beach, while surrounding villas and cases, one by one closed up for the night.

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## dadto6

SWEET!

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## PeterLynn

Last full day on "our" beach

With our "time slot" closing on Flamands, we enjoyed our last full day here before a shift over to Lorient for the rest of the week. Rain clouds building, we jump in the Jimny for a few errands. Major stop was at the airport to talk to the Tradewind folks. Having upgraded to first class on the United flight down to SJU, one of the perks is a free extra checked bag, so we packed a third suitcase with extra clothes and a couple of pool floats, which could then be used to cushion an extra bottle of rose or two and my usual 3-liter box of Clement rhum. Too clever by half. Turns out our total arrival weight was already the maximum (100 lbs) for Tradewind. Their policy is to send extra weight on a later flight, but by that time we would already be homebound. Thus the plan is to send the bag over a day earlier, except all the SBH-SJU flights for Friday are empty (i.e. no flights). UGH! Tradewind counter person said to check back on Thursday to go over the options, which means that no purchases of any weight are being made until we know for sure.

Back to the villa for a bit, before heading into Gustavia. Parking required several rounds through town, trying every combination of cross streets and with numerous missed opportunities. Finally found one in the back corner by L'isola. Whew. All this effort caused great hunger pains, so we made our first visit to La Creperie and a shared Galette (egg, ham and cheese). Light and delicious. Back to the Jimny to reset the parking clock and then a stroll over to Bar L'Oblie and another first, a meet up with the newly arrived Phil and Amy over a glass of rose or two. Wonderful, wonderful time. They are a truly delightful couple and we are so glad our paths crossed.

Rest of the day is relaxing with a Clos Beylesse before changing and taking our final stroll down the beach to La Langouste. Appetizers were gazpacho and a nice crab tiramisu. Dinner was a shared langouste grilee. Amazing how much different the Caribbean lobsters are from Maine lobsters and have a certain "gout de la mer". Soon after we placed our order, the restaurant filled up with only a couple of empty tables. Exhausting watching our waiter scurry from table to table managing the half French half American crowd. Upon bringing the check, he nicely left us with a less than empty carafe of Rhum Vanille, so more than a single shot was sipped. A nice nightcap.

Some photos:
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## amyb

Nice meeting up with you too. Your days are sure full. Goodluck in your new villa.

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## PeterLynn

Merci. Villa rep just texted they are ready. Au revoir Flamands and VDD.

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## GramChop

Y'all keep great company!  Oh, and nice Luckenbach T-shirt.   :cool:

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## Izzy

> Sargassum to the left of me sargassum to the right of me, here I am stuck in the middle...




Gerry Rafferty Appreciation Week on St Barth!... a reclusive, reluctant star with an unfortunate life story who was among the best at what he did...

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## PeterLynn

> Oh, and nice Luckenbach T-shirt.



 Thanks. The old one wore out, so I got a new one back in March when we visited the hill country. SXSW was in town so we based ourselves out of the Hotel Havana in San Antonio. Speaking of Liz Lambert hotels, I was wearing my Hotel San Jose T shirt on the columbier hike, which was noticed by a couple from Austin. Small world.

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## amyb

It really is a small world. Bumping into old acquaintances in new ports..priceless.

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## PeterLynn

The final stretch

With our slot closed and no point in heading back home mid-week, we decided back last fall to book an additional villa. Within our budget, nothing on Flamands, done Pointe Milou (hate the afternoon heat), so landed on the Villa Bikini above Lorient. Yesterday, the villa rep managed to land an early arrival, so we pack up our belongings, including wine, ice and a single coffee filter (just in case) and followed him over to Lorient. Road was closed between St Jean and Lorient for the day, so took the scenic route (aren't they all?) and came in the back way. Ironically, all the construction is happening at the foot of the villa's driveway, so egress is less than ideal. Villa itself is a step up from the VDD, including a better equipped kitchen, although the waves are much further away. 

Friends from the past several visits arrived yesterday, so we headed into Gustavia for a few rounds of rose and people watching with them at Le Select. Amazing how the relationships take on a larger part of our experiences here. Had an early pre-departure lunch of baguettes with whatever was left in the refrigerator at Flamands, so began to get a bit hungry. Haven't had a "Cheeseburger in Paradise" in six years, so gave the "Marius Special" a try (double burger with actual bacon, not lardons). Quite surprised and definitely hit the spot. So much better than last time. I'm a partial convert. Couple of hours fly by and it's time to part ways and check on the Jimny. Empty spot behind us so we move back, reset the clock and do a little shopping.

Back at the villa, decide we are a bit "restauranted out", so we need to cancel our Tamarin reservation. Wife is busy with her phone and mine is in airplane mode (lest I repeatedly incur the $10 international charge), I pick up the villa phone (in yet another first) and dial the whole 05 90 ....... With several "desole's" they are understanding and thankful I took the time to call. Friends then call with an invitation for a few drinks at their villa across the water from us. Wonderful evening catching up and a few hours later I'm back here overlooking the twinkling lights of the Christopher drinking a ti punch from the Clement rhum and cane sugar graciously left by the previous guests. A notre sante.

A few photos (and a faster internet connection):

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## amyb

Another super day and report!

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## GramChop

You've got the "enjoying St Barth" thing down pat!  I had a lovely stay at VKN several years ago.  That is until I realized that pool is the area's watering hole for bats that dive bomb around midnight!  I learned to walk on water that night.   :Embarrassment:

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## dadto6

Funny story Missy 
Wish I were there to see you walk on water

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## GramChop

> Funny story Missy 
> Wish I were there to see you walk on water



That trip, in particular, was wrought with extraordinary memorable experiences!  To give you a tease:  I think I might have married one of Rosita's cats!  :cool:  :Very Drunk:

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## PeterLynn

> That is until I realized that pool is the area's watering hole for bats that dive bomb around midnight!  I learned to walk on water that night.



 Holy ****! That's what all that commotion was in front of me last night while sitting on the deck! I thought it was the Ti punch going to my head!

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## GramChop

> Holy ****! That's what all that commotion was in front of me last night while sitting on the deck! I thought it was the Ti punch going to my head!



Well, that answers my question:  Yes...the bats survived the hurricane!

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## Rosita

Lol....Missy  :Big Laugh:

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## GramChop

> Lol....Missy



By the way...do you have any new rhum for July?  :Devil Laughing:

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## KevinS

Just think of them as natural mosquito control.

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## PeterLynn

Sprinkles, rain and a deluge.

Villa faces the east, so was awoken by an amazing sunrise at 5:30am. Still too early to be up, so back to bed for a couple of hours. With maid set to arrive, we pack up and head to Gouverneurs, which now involves that crazy curve up to Lurin. A bit cloudy driving down the hill with lot's of apparent sargassum. As we trudge toward the entrance, the beach is roped off and a single backhoe is gathering up large amounts of seaweed. The operator notices us and all but said the beach is closed. When I asked about Saline, he said it's just as bad and recommended St Jean. Haven't been so make a couple of stops along the way (drop off a Carte Postale, etc...) before setting up on the "pelican" side. Cloudy, but fairly quiet with a few families splashing in the calm water. Not too much into the party vibe, so have avoided Nikki Beach all these years, but this has been a trip of "firsts", so why not. Beachside dining is always wonderful and the service was good as was the food. Had a beef thai salade and the "Trendy" sushi platter. Nice assortment, although not Uchi (for my Texas friends). About the time our café gourmand arrives, the sprinkles start, which forces the day bed crowd off the beach. 

With no sunshine likely, we stop by the airport to check on the extra luggage situation with Tradewind. Turns out flight have been booked, so we have been liberated of the 100 lbs limit on our departure. Thus we can go shopping and fill up a single suitcase for a solo trip on Friday, while the remaining two bags come with us on Saturday. Hallelujah! Immediately stop by the liquor store across road for some Reimonenq Rhum (for ti puches) and Havana Club 3 anos (daiquiris and mojitos). A short rest at the villa and a change of clothes for some Gustavia shopping and our Jicky cruise. As we head out, the rain picks up and the cruise appears likely to be more champagne than sunset. La Gloriette rhums are purchased "pour voyager" and the wife got her coral heart sculpture at Teck. Drop everything off in the Jicky and scurry off to the catamaran.

Meet our companions, including our friends with whom we have done this for the past five years, as well as another couple from Houston and couple of second-timers and a newlywed couple also from Texas. With a sunset obviously out of the question and rain still falling, all elect to venture forth, shades of Gilligan's Island. About hallway out of the harbor, the rain gets more steady and we hurry to the back of the boat for cover and then the skies just open up. With rain coming in sideways and diluting our champagne, the decision is made to abandon the trip and head back the port. The Jicky people were wonderful and offered either rebooking for another day, or for those of us who couldn't, a full refund. Class organization. With restaurants still closed, most of us head over the Victoria for an hour or so of conversation and cocktails.

About 8, we stroll over to QG with our friends for our regular post-cruise dinner. Never been. Beautiful restaurant, especially as the dining area reveals itself walking up the ramp. Lively crowd with almost the entire left side one big table of locals celebrating a birthday. Service was excellent and the food was quite good. Wife had the lobster tagliatelles (not quite La Langouste standard) and I the duck breast. First I've had since Maya's several years ago, so I can't really make a comparison. Desert was shared "Champagne Gourmands". A carafe of rhum vanille was left on the table, which led to another hour of conversation and catching up.

Some Photos:

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## GramChop

> Just think of them as natural mosquito control.



I tried, but when they are whizzing by my head at midnight, it's tough to think anything else but "WTF was THAT?" and "How in the heck to I make it go away!"  The next couple of nights I thought of them as mosquito control from INSIDE the large sliding glass door.

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## PeterLynn

> I tried, but when they are whizzing by my head at midnight, it's tough to think anything else but "WTF was THAT?" and "How in the heck to I make it go away!"  The next couple of nights I thought of them as mosquito control from INSIDE the large sliding glass door.



Exactly. Buzzed by one last night as we returned from dinner. Unfortunately mosquitoes still around this morning.

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## GramChop

> Exactly. Buzzed by one last night as we returned from dinner. Unfortunately mosquitoes still around this morning.



I have never seen them anywhere else on the island; just diving and sipping from the pool at Villa Bikini.  Have you?

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## cec1

QG’s duck is among very best on the island . . . glad that you liked it!

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## dadto6

In all the years, I have not had any bat experiences.  Maybe they hang out during the day at the Autour Du Rocher ruins.

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## stbartshopper

Hawke we agree. Your photos Peter Lynn are excellent!

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## PeterLynn

> Maybe they hang out during the day at the Autour Du Rocher ruins.



 I was thinking the same thing. As a matter of fact we just returned from wandering around the ruins.

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## PeterLynn

> I have never seen them anywhere else on the island; just diving and sipping from the pool at Villa Bikini.  Have you?



 No, but most of our visits have been spent on Flamands. Doesn't sound like you hang out by the south congress bridge much.

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## GramChop

> No, but most of our visits have been spent on Flamands. Doesn't sound like you hang out by the south congress bridge much.



I've kayaked from the Texas Rowing Center on LBL at sunset once to see the bats and one other time I organized a corporate group on a sunset "party boat".  Both times gave me the eebie jeebies.  Not much of a bat fan....especially at night...alone... while swimming...sans suit.  EEEK!

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## PeterLynn

Autour Lorient

Cloudy Ascension day in Lorient. No maid, but alas, no sun either. Invited our friends over for a dinner at "our place", so crept down the driveway to the L'Oasis for a couple of extra steaks and additional vegetables. Being the only "big" store open, it was a bit crowded and a little chaotic. Some reading and touching base with the office and it's lunch time. Down the hill and through the construction zones to the JoJo burger. Fish sandwich was as good as I remember, although a little light on the fish, and the premium cheeseburger was excellent as well. Restaurant also quite crowded with both locals and Americans. Finished, we went for a stroll. First, we paid our respects to Johnny and then crossed over to the beach, passing by the surf shack, which is looking good after having found itself in the cemetery during Irma. 

A few "sun"bathers and the right side of the beach and a number of villas in various states of repair. Heading back toward the other side, there are a few surfers idling in the waves and teenagers running and squealing in and out of the water. Quite a few open areas on this side, including the old Eden Rock pop-up bar. Get to the end, and look up at Autour de Roche. No gate or fence or sign, so step up on the road and wander on up. Few minutes later and we are at the top, silently singing the Jimmy Buffett tune. Surprised to find such a small footprint, so it's hard to image what the place must have been like. Kind of creepy, made all the more so with the wind and overcast skies.

Back at the villa, some more reading and napping, before we straighten up and being prepping dinner. Friends arrive around six under an interesting pink sky. Much conversation follows as steaks are put on the grill, potatoes roasted and haricot verts sautéed. A nice bordeaux purchased from Baccus across the road makes a great paring. After dinner drinks keep the conversation going, until close to midnight, then it's time to part ways for another year.

Some Photos:

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## amyb

A pleasure meeting you and Lynn. Your adventures were interesting to read I and these reports took me places I have yet to visit.

Safe travels. Take good care of each other.

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## PeterLynn

Not done just yet. Dodging raindrops today, Maya's tonight and home tomorrow.

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## Hawke

> I was thinking the same thing. As a matter of fact we just returned from wandering around the ruins.



Bats live in many small spaces. They have an undeserved bad reputation. Bats eat an amazing amount of mosquitoes each night. The best bat scene was Woody Allen attempting to kill one.

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## KevinS

That Jimmy Buffett tune, Autour du Rocher, was originally written by an island band,  Alerte 2B. The band consisted of the Ledee twins Henri and Leon (then of Le Grain de Sel), Jean-Jaques Kraif, and Marcello Limodin (former chef at the old K'fe Massai). Buffett's version is a bit different. Buffett and the Alerte 2B band members share the songwriting credit on Buffett's version.

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## amyb

Hawke-how about the bat scene in THE BIG CHILL?

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## PeterLynn

Final day

A bit of a slow start after finishing off the remaining wine last night. Made my way down the driveway and across the street for a baguette and veinnoiserie. Arms full, much slower crawl back up to the villa. Still warm, they make for a delicious breakfast with coffee and Malo yoghurt. Real trick to leave the island with an empty refrigerator. Think it might happen this year. About eleven, pack up the extra suitcase with the beach items, Rhum and Rum and head up to airport to hand it off to the Tradewind folks for an early flight to San Juan. Fingers crossed it is waiting for us tomorrow.

More refrigerator cleaning at lunch and then an afternoon alternating between outdoor reading and indoor organizing, depending on the weather. Books finished, we turn on Canel+ and catch the final episode of "4 Marriages pour une miel de lune". Merveille and Francois won, so we are happy for them. Quick shower and a change of clothes and we are off for the final dinner of the trip at Maya's. After a pretty dreary day, the sunset had some pretty interesting colors and textures, so stop to take some pictures.

Real obstacle course getting to the restaurant with even the side streets getting rebuilt. Great to see Dora's smiling face as we are seating along the rail. Really missed them this time last year, so it's wonderful to see the restaurant back to its old self. Instead of the usual Tartare and tomato salad, opened with Langouste gratin and pho soup. Both were good, but thinking we should have stuck with our original appetizers. I had the Scallops (San Jaques) which were beautifully cooked and the wife has a fairly large grilled veal chop, which was also great. Haricot vertes were very tender and the black rice never fails. Desert were the fabulous, an famous, Gateau aux chocolate and Gateau de L'orange. In between we had visits by Randy and then Maya, who thanked us for coming back to both the island and their restaurant. Alas, no Wilbert, but was told he is doing well and liking daytime work at Maya's To Go. A nice vanille, orange and café flavored rhum hit the spot. We bid a farewell, complete with bisous.

Long day tomorrow, so time for bed.

Some Photos:

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## dadto6

Wishing you safe travels and thank you for allowing us into your VACA.  It was very magical to read about from State side.

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## amyb

Wishing you a smooth  and safe trip home. So nice to meet you in person. Your posts have been a treat.

Until the next time, take good care of each other.

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## cec1

Atmospheric conditions seem to have produced remarkable sunsets in many parts of the world in recent weeks, as I’ve seen images from various areas.  Enjoyed yours very much.

Of course, all of your writing & photography have been fun & exciting to read & view.  Great job of taking us along on your active & much enjoyed trip.

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## GramChop

What a way to end the trip.  Bon voyage, y'all!

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## PeterLynn

Thanks all for your wonderful comments. Wrote the diary as much to remember the trip, but thoroughly enjoyed sharing it with you. Tradewind flight at 12:45, so about to power down and head to the airport. Maybe Maya's to go for a quick bite. Hoping Wilfred is working today.

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## NancySC

> Holy ****! That's what all that commotion was in front of me last night while sitting on the deck! I thought it was the Ti punch going to my head!



  I think the bat thing is kind of universal, didn't see any in Lurin.  Your pictures are wonderful as well as the narrative.  Would have loved to have met up with you two & all the others on island during time overlaps, we did have dinner on our next to last nite at Maya's with Amy & Phil, fun nite, turns out Randy spent part of his growing up years in the same area of the Main Line of Phila as where we lived before moving to SC.

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## PeterLynn

> Would have loved to have met up with you two & all the others on island during time overlaps,



 Been nice as well to meet. As I recall you mentioned seeing us last year. Maybe third time's the charm?

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## PeterLynn

Au Revoir St Barth, à l'année prochaine...

Noon-ish flight, so the morning was spent getting ready. First up was filling the Jimny with gas (not "Gazole" as I almost tried to - Nozzle doesn't fit, which was the first sign. The screaming clerk was the other). Next were croissants and pan au chocolate for breakfast from Choissy, then navigating through the construction maze. The traffic lights work really well (I like the timers), except when one enters in between where you can't see either. Quite the strategy trying figure who is stopped and who is not and then get going before your lane catches up to you. With the Oasis and Choissy here, we witnessed several miscalculations and fortunately no accidents.

Back in the villa, we finish the viennoiserie and remaining jar of "Bonne Maman Fraises" before the serious packing begins. Even with a third suitcase (awaiting us in San Juan), it is still a struggle getting everything in. Sixth visit and we still bring too many clothes (and too little money). RSB announces "Il est onze heures" and it's time to leave. Chat with Odile for a bit as she checks in the Jimny and then to the Tradewind counter with the bags. Have about an hour to kill, so we walk around the shopping areas by the Marché (love being at a real keyboard again so I can add the French "ALT+xxx" characters easily) before stopping at Maya's to go for a quick bite. No Wilfred, but our server from the previous night was behind the counter. Sandwiches pretty well cleared out, so we share the last chicken and peppers on ciabatta bread outside while watching the planes come and go as well as the fire truck periodically racing up and down the runway. Back at the terminal, can't resist the last opportunity for a Pati St Barth shirt, before seating ourselves in the departure area.

The takeoff is where I really notice the difference between Tradewind and SBC. The Pilatus is so much smoother and really climbs quickly. None of this leisurely sightseeing of all the places we visited the previous couple of weeks. Full flight and a little banter back and forth about our experiences before everyone settles in for the one hour-ish flight. We deplane on the tarmac and are bused to what feels like the back door of the customs area. Global Entry makes quick work of the process and we are soon off in search of our third bag. A bit confusing, as we and our bags were supposed to be reunited in the carrousel area, but as it turns out, the bag had passed through customs the previous day and was waiting for us in Tradewinds office. Probably stick to two bags of <50 lbs each next time. A final quirk of going through San Juan is that bags have to be cleared by the USDA before they can be checked, kind of like leaving Hawaii. Land in Houston around eight and are back in our own bed by eleven. 

Overall a great trip. Two weeks just flew by (woke up this morning feeling like I dreamed it all up). The first couple of years, we focused on hitting all the major beaches and restaurants. The next couple of visits, we settled into a lunch-dinner rotation and other than a stop for more rosé, water and another t-shirt or two, spent the rest of the time in the villa. This time we did a bit of everything. Beaches (old and new), restaurants (old and new), hanging out in the villa, cooking in the villa, entertaining in the villa, wandering day and night in Gustavia, meeting old friends and making new ones. Curious what next year will be like.... 

Only one photo:

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## cec1

Very nice close!

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## Tiffany

Glad you had such a wonderful trip.  Thank you for sharing.

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## PeterLynn

> Gerry Rafferty Appreciation Week on St Barth!...



Hah!

Going though the just finished trip and caught the reference. We're children of the LATE 70's, so Baker street is our connection to Gerry Rafferty. Stealers Wheel was middle school and a "different" band.

Thanks for keeping it real!

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