# The SBHonline Community Daily > Restaurants Wine & Food Off The Island >  >  from the WSJ:  Sweet Nothing Italian Desserts

## Grey

Thinking of trying the apple torte once we get some good apples.  What do you think?

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB1000...Header_Rotator

Forget towering tiramisus and colossal cannolis: for most Italians, dessert means a perfectly ripe peach sliced into a chilled coppa di vino, plump figs stuffed with mascarpone or a platter of crisp anise-scented biscotti. Elaborate architectural pastries and intricate cakes may take center stage on holidays and feast days, but when it comes to everyday dolcisweets nibbled with an aperitif or an eye-opening espressosimplicity and seasonality rule.

Still, simple hardly equals unsophisticated. With their desserts as with their savories, Italian home cooks seem to have a savant-like talent for elevating humble staples such as fresh fruit, nuts and cocoa to elegant heights. Their gift: knowing when an ingredient is at its peak and being unafraid to let its singular virtues shine. Evidence of that talent is on every page of "Dolci: Italy's Sweets," a new cookbook by food historian Francine Segan that brings together a canon of authentic recipes collected from the people who really use themhomemakers, chefs, nonnas and bloggers. Excerpted here are a few standouts: a hearty cake sweetened with thickly sliced apples that's ideal for autumn, when orchards grow heavy; a playful "salad" of dried fruit and candied citrusso abundant in the Southperfumed with liqueur and tossed with shards of chewy nougat torrone; and a century-old chocolate confection that can be thrown together without even turning on the oven. Stealing a bite of the sweet life has never seemed easier.

Sarah Karnasiewicz

From the book Dolci: Italy's Sweets by Francine Segan
Rustic Tuscan Apple Cake, aka Torta di mele

Rustic Tuscan Apple Cake, aka Torta di mele
Region: Tuscany Serves: 8-10

A classic. At first glance this may seem like a huge ratio of apple to dough; you're going to be tempted to cut down on the apples. Don't! They magically meld into the batter, and you'll love the result. The top half of the cake is chock full of tender apples that float over sweet, moist cake. This is a deceptively simple recipe that yields exceptional results.

Ingredients:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for the pan 
1¾ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for the pan 
2/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar 
2 large eggs 
½ cup whole milk 
2 teaspoons baking powder 
1 teaspoon baking soda 
Grated zest of 1 lemon (about 3 teaspoons) 
4 small apples (about 2 pounds)


iStockphoto
What to Do:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour an 8-inch round cake pan. In a large bowl, using a whisk or an electric mixer, beat the 2/3 cup sugar and the eggs until creamy and light yellow. Beat in the flour, milk, baking powder, baking soda and lemon zest. Pour batter into the prepared pan.

2. Peel and core the apples. Dice one and sprinkle it over the batter. Cut the remaining apples into thin slices and spread them in a neat pattern over the diced apples in the pan. Scatter thin pats of butter over the apples and sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar. Bake for about 50 minutes, until dark golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.


From the book Dolci: Italy's Sweets by Francine Segan
Winter Fruit Salad, aka Macedonia Invernale

Winter Fruit Salad, aka Macedonia Invernale
Region: Throughout Italy Serves: 10-12

This is a terrific no-cook, no-fuss dessert that's very popular with home cooks in Italy, but not very well known in the United States. Mix your favorite dried fruits with nuts, chopped chocolate and any candy you have on hand. Add some orange juice and a splash of liqueur and pass the spoons.

Ingredients:
2 handfuls assorted dried fruit, chopped 
2 handfuls assorted chopped nuts 
1 handful soft torrone (Italian nougat candy), or assorted leftover candy bars, chopped 
1 handful dark chocolate, chopped 
1 handful milk chocolate, chopped 
10 amaretti (crisp almond cookies) or other cookies, coarsely chopped 
A little candied orange peel, minced 
Freshly squeezed orange juice 
Italian liqueur such as limoncello or amaretto 
Mascarpone cheese or whipped cream

What to Do:

WSJ Studio
1. In a resealable plastic bag or plastic container with a lid, combine the dried fruit, nuts, torrone, dark and milk chocolates, amaretti and candied orange peel. Seal and set aside in a cool, dry place for up to 3 months.

2. One hour before serving, add enough orange juice to moisten the fruit mixture. Just before serving, add liqueur to taste, if you like. Serve in wineglasses, topped with a dollop of mascarpone cheese or whipped cream.


From the book Dolci: Italy's Sweets by Francine Segan
'Instant' Chocolate Cake, aka Dolce torino

'Instant' Chocolate Cake, aka Dolce torino
Region: Piedmont Serves: 4-6

This no-bake recipe, which feels so ultra-modern, comes from an Italian cookbook written in 1891. Store-bought savoiardi ladyfinger cookies are dipped in liqueur, layered with chocolate and then refrigerated until firm. Pronto fatto, it's done.

Ingredients:
7 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 
½ cup confectioners' sugar 
1 large egg yolk 
3½ ounces dark chocolate, at least 70% cacao 
2 tablespoons heavy cream* 
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract 
2 tablespoons sugar, plus more to taste 
4 tablespoons sweet liqueur, such as alchermes 
12 savoiardi (crisp ladyfingers) 
2 tablespoons crushed pistachios or hazelnuts

What to Do:
1. In a large bowl, using a whisk or electric mixer, beat the butter, confectioners' sugar and egg yolk until very smooth and creamy. Set aside.

2. Put the chocolate and cream in a small bowl and melt chocolate, either in a microwave or over a saucepan of gently simmering water. Let chocolate mixture cool to room temperature, then stir it and the vanilla into the butter mixture. Set aside.


iStockphoto
3. Combine 5 tablespoons warm water with the granulated sugar in a shallow bowl and stir until the sugar dissolves. Stir in the liqueur, adding more sugar to taste. Dip 4 of the savoiardi, one at a time, into the liquid. Be sure to moisten them well on all sides. Arrange the 4 liqueur-dipped savoiardi in a row, close together, on a serving plate. Spread with one third of the chocolate mixture. Repeat the dipping and layering to make 2 more layers, spreading the last layer of chocolate mixture on top and around the sides of the stacked savoiardi. Sprinkle top layer with pistachio or hazelnuts. Refrigerate for 3 hours, or until firm. Serve cold.

*If you are using a chocolate with a lower percentage of cacao solids, use less heavy cream.

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## JEK



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## andynap

> 1. In a resealable plastic bag or plastic container with a lid, combine the dried fruit, nuts, torrone, dark and milk chocolates, amaretti and candied orange peel. Seal and set aside in a cool, dry place for up to 3 months



I don't understand why for 3 months?

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## JEK

Allow the flavor to meld. IMHO.

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## JEK

No, it is a shelf-life issue. Do not keep longer than 3 months. IMHO II.

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## MIke R

looks good...our apple trees are having a bountiful year...Macouns, Red Delicious, and Honeycrisps up the ying yang right now......I' m making apple chutney to go with my roast pork this weekend
Grey, I'll send you some apples....LOL

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## KevinS

I work in apple country.  There are 3-4 orchards within a mile of my office, and dozens within 10 miles.  If you're not finding what you need locally then please let me know.

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## amyb

Macouns are still my favorite apple.

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## MIke R

they are up there - but not my favorite

Honeycrisps far and away are my number one...

Pixie Crisps next

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## andynap

> Allow the flavor to meld. IMHO.




Dried nuts and fruits- meld?? If there was a liquid or strong herb I could see. Oh well - it's their nuts not mine- good thing.  :p

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## JEK

See IMHO II.

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## andynap

Got it. Mix nuts, fruits, chocolates and use right away. :)

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## Grey

Thank you for your kind offer, Kevin.  The selection at my local Whole Foods should (hopefully) pick up in a few weeks.  I'm thinking a tart apple might be nice for this recipe, but maybe not?

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## MIke R

Wendi is doing the Tuscan Apple Cake today......she saw the recipe and liked it...so now we  get it...

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## Grey

Nice!  Please report back.

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## MIke R

cooking up a storm today

the apple cake just came out of the oven
all the apples came from my own trees


 

also a  veggie Lasagna..with  fresh farm picked eggplant, spinach, peppers, and onions inside and all fire grilled first....


 



in the oven waiting to come out yet is a  loin of pork with a fig walnut glaze......and apple chutney

and a chili is simmering on the stove top

we re cooking for the week ....

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## andynap

I have veal scallopini ready to cook for tonight- peppers from my garden still. I made caponata this afternoon for work lunch tomorrow from my eggplants that are still growing. 

I'll have a piece of that pie.

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## Grey

Those pictures are making my mouth water.  What kind of apples did you use?

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## MIke R

Wendi used honeycrisps...macouns ..and red delicious...those  are the trees we have on our property...it smelt incredible when it came out of the oven....Wendi says thanks for the recipe
right now  I am smelling apple cake cooling in the window....chili simmering on the stove.....roast pork roasting in the oven...garlic bread baking on the oven.... and I am going nuts waiting to eat...LOL

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## Dennis

After being on the fishing boat all week, all I smelled was the smelt.

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## JEK

All the smelt that I smelled had been previously smelt.

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## andynap

Must be cocktail time.  :)

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## MIke R

> Must be cocktail time.  :)





frick and frack havent figured out yet that I set them up like bowling pins with that...

haveing been called out for that word many times prior..

so don't tell them...let the little boys have fun with it for a while

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## Dennis

F & F know that anytime you get caught with your linguistic pants down you'll play the "I set them up" card. 

As predictable as a smelt run.

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## Dennis

Great looking food, though. 

I wish I could have smelt it.

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## MIke R

> F & F know that anytime you get caught with your linguistic pants down you'll play the "I set them up" card. 
> 
> As predictable as a smelt run.




on a scale of 1 to 10 of how much F&F know about what I do and why I do and how I do in here?????..

on a good day its a 2..and thats  not according to me..thats according to people in here who really know me....LOL

so you believe whatever gets you through the night...

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## JEK

> Great looking food, though. 
> 
> I wish I could have smelt it.




  I'm sure is smelled great.

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## MIke R

oh and Dennis


Green Bay is beating Chicago...
despite the fact that i took Chicago and you took GB...LOL

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## JEK

> Originally Posted by Dennis
> 
> F & F know that anytime you get caught with your linguistic pants down you'll play the "I set them up" card. 
> 
> As predictable as a smelt run.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...



It's nice you have such a robust support mechanism "in here". It takes a village . . . .

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## MIke R

yes it is....

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## Dennis

I can't believe your giving us a 2. 

More than I could ever hope for.

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## MIke R

I am feeling generous...I had a great morning with K&K...GB is beating Chicago and I just had an amazing dinner..and we are on bottle number three of the grape....

its been a good  day!

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## MIke R

> I can't believe your giving us a 2. 
> 
> .




oh and Den

its _you're_

not "your"

tsk tsk

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## andynap

Bottle number 3???

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## MIke R

yeah i am ashamed to say....

its that Sicilian Nero D'Avola

we are suckers for it...goes down like water

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## Dennis

> Originally Posted by Dennis
> 
> I can't believe your giving us a 2. 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...

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## MIke R

and Andy the three bottles is since 2 oclock....so its been a while

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## MIke R

back to the thread...

From the book Dolci: Italy's Sweets by Francine Segan
Rustic Tuscan Apple Cake, aka Torta di mele

Rustic Tuscan Apple Cake, aka Torta di mele
Region: Tuscany Serves: 8-10

A classic. At first glance this may seem like a huge ratio of apple to dough; you're going to be tempted to cut down on the apples. Don't! They magically meld into the batter, and you'll love the result. The top half of the cake is chock full of tender apples that float over sweet, moist cake. This is a deceptively simple recipe that yields exceptional results.

Ingredients:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for the pan 
1¾ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for the pan 
2/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar 
2 large eggs 
½ cup whole milk 
2 teaspoons baking powder 
1 teaspoon baking soda 
Grated zest of 1 lemon (about 3 teaspoons) 
4 small apples (about 2 pounds)




Grey:

This recipe is a good one....very simple and basic and easy to do...now that we 've tried it their way (and enjoyed it) - the next time we will probably hit it with some cinnamon and nutmeg and maybe a bit more lemon zest.....but the cake is nice and spongey and light and goes really well with the apples and a small dollup of vanilla ice cream over  it

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## Dennis

It sounds wonderful and looks even better.

I was going to make an apple pie but I had a pie crust fail and didn't have enough time to do over or else my main course wouldn't have come out of the oven until 10:00.

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## Grey

Wendi's cake looked better than the one pictured in the WSJ.

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## MIke R

if I ever tried  to bake in our house I would end up getting thrown out of the kitchen with a rolling pin up my arse.....

which is just fine with me....but Sunday morning conversations usually start with "ok...when do you want the kitchen and when can I have the kitchen?".


.when we had our cafe it got so bad  we had to stop going to work together and instead do overlapping shifts....someone was going to get hurt....LOL

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## andynap

Phyllis and I do an adagio in the kitchen all the time. She was making meatballs while I was doing veal scallopini. She does have a strong hip tho.

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## MIke R

neither one of us want any help when we are in the kitchen....she can make the salad if she wants ..thats it....and when I even approach the kitchen when she has it, all I get is a stern "what are you doing?"....

"uh nothing hon...gettin a beer..put the knife down"

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## andynap

If I have one of those never ending asian recipes from Susanna Foo, Phyl will prep for me. She is a great sous chef- but don't tell her. LOL

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## MIke R

I wont......LOL

I have such great memories of going  to Wendi grandparents house in Vermont and watching her grandmother teach Wendi how to bake this and that and they would only speak French ( so I had no clue what the hell they were saying )...while her grandfather would get me trashed on Canadian Whiskey on the rocks in the parlor...

fun times...We miss them both

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## MIke R

one more comment about the cake...Wendi went heart healthy on the recipe and used 2% Milk instead of whole, used Smart Balance Butter Blend ( 50% Butter 50% Smart Balance )instead of pure butter, and used one whole egg and one eggs worth of egg white instead of two whole eggs...and it came out fine that way

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