# Caribbean Vacations Forums > St John & U.S. Virgin Islands Travel Forum >  >  St Croix - For JEK et al

## Island Visitor

As a service to all, here is my quick rundown of St Croix:

In the years since JEK, Hurricane Miker and Andy left St Croix, it has grown a nice little community of mainlanders (Continentals as they are called), divers, sportsfishers and triathletes.  Indeed the St Croix half ironman is considered the best qualifying race in the world for the super bowl of ironmen competition in Hawaii and as such draws many of the best athletes in the world.

St Croix has a late sixties/early seventies Beachtown feel to it with a little mix of Fort Lauderdale thrown in.  At the golf courses (Buccaneer and Carambola, former Fountain Valley of dubious memory) you will see ageing fellows betting skins with their buddies.  At the various watering holes downtown you will see Continentals, creoles, locals, yachties, pirates, rasta, younguns living out a buffetoid youth and people just looking to make their way in a beach town.  

The vibe is very casual, very american.  And while there is clearly danger on the island in the wrong areas, you just dont feel it in Csted or on the East End.  Indeed, most of the islanders very much want you to have a good time.

As opposed to some islands, the locals are very friendly but do not have a servile attitude.  I believe this has occurred because of the slow and halting development of St Croix.  To date, the island has never been taken from them by The Man and they still feel that it is theirs.  Because of that, there is a tremendous local pride in people who are warm, gracious and welcoming.  The fact that people choose specifically to visit the island also goes a long way in making those on the island treat you as true honored guests, not just part of a horde that was disgorged from a ship

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## MIke R

Hotel on the Cay is where I called home for the better part of 2 years...but that was when it was brand new...I hear its "dated" now......Commanche  restaurant is no longer???..that was one of the better ones back in the day....and what restaurant is now located right there on the corner on the harbor where the little ferry goes to Hotel on the Cay in C-Sted????...it used to be a Chart House..and not very good

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## Island Visitor

Hotel On The Cay does have that "worn" look.  I hear locals talk about it not being the same since Hurricane Miker swept through (I thought it was Hugo).  It is being sold as condos I believe.

There is no resto right on the corner now.  Instead there is a tshirt shop and a few vendors as well as a small bar/resto nearby.

As you well know Miker, the "scene" changes pretty constantly on a tourist island.  Former Greats such as Top Hat have given way to newer restos.  But there are some, notably Kendrick, Duggan's, Savant, Tutto Bene, etc that have now been on site and in the same hands for many years.  And there is a budding Resto Scene beginning to blossom on the island as even younger chefs are trying to make a go of it.  Given the number of Continentals, Hotel People, Yachties and Pirates who patrol the streets, the restos all seem to do well pretty much year round.

St Croix is a curious mix of a lot of really nice things to me.  If there is a cuter harbor town in the caribbean, it would have to be Gustavia.  The East End is stunning, sort of a giant Toiny/Grand Fond with rolling hills.   The beaches are good and the people are friendly.  

When you are in St Croix, it feels like you are at the beach in America, except better.

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## Peter NJ

Miker what years did you live on St Croix? My brother lived at the Reef Condos and managed Hotel Commanchee back in the day...late 70's early 80's he was on island...I bet you guys ran into each other if thats when you were there..did you ever meet a Windsurfing chick named Dee?? she lived on St Croix in the Winter then moved to P-Town for the Summers...

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## JEK

Merci, mon ami!

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## MIke R

79-81.........the name isnt familiar...but then again....I'm sure I ran into your brother at one time or another.....if your brother has any recollection of the guy who was killed when the road gave way and his jeep toppled over onto the passenger...those were my crew members/employees....and that is a loooooooong story

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## Island Visitor

> Merci, mon ami!



Je t'en prie

Of course, I would be happy to answer any specific questions but the points I put up are a good start for visitors.

A drive around the east end is fun.  Csted offers some pretty nice shopping - a notch back from what you would see in Gustavia and three notches back in price.  

In daytime, you are safe prowling the main streets of Csted.  After hours or on some side streets could get dicey.  Then again, is that not true most places?

As to rental cars, there is good taxi service on the island and cabbies (who all drive vans) like to hook up with you and become your personal driver for the week.  Indeed, the fellow who took us from the airport to the hotel wanted to drive us around whenever.  

The front desk can get you a driver pretty much anytime.  But the cabbies also would like to do some of that  -  shhhhhh  -  off the books and you could score a deal here if you want.

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## andynap

QUOTE:" Fredericksted: While the downtown area is very attractive, it is also very quiet right now as there are no cruise ships. "

Very strange. Used to be a busy cruise ship stop. Too much crime?? I know the cruise lines are very sensitive to onshore crime- SXM has been threatened with stoppage- but  I can't believe that NO cruise line would not stop there. 
I have had my fill of St. Croix- people are too nasty and the rasties are still there and thriving.

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## Island Visitor

Andy:  There are two stories as to why the last cruise line (Carnival) pulled out.

Carnival maintained that there was too much crime after an incident in which a couple of their crew were beaten up in a neighborhood that is known to be where you go to score drugs.

The Cruzans maintain that they were not willing to pay Tribute to Carnival.  That is, the various vendors were not willing to kick back part of their fees.

I have researched this and when a large ship pulls into port, the kickback in fees (from tour operators, merchants, etc, etc) can run 40,000 - 70,000 per ship.  That is Tribute that goes directly back to the line every time they pull into port.  Apparently the Tribute in St Croix only came to 4,000 - 5,000 per dockage.  Carnival had a contract but used the episode highlighted above to break the deal.

The crime rate in St Croix is actually lower than that in St Thomas which is one of the two busiest ports in the caribbean.   And there is actually a list of the number of tourists who have been killed on St Croix.  The number is very, very low - single digits over the last thirty years.

Crime in St Croix is exactly what you would expect - youth on youth over drugs and breakins to supports drugs.  

In my three trips to the island, I have never even once been remotely concerned that I was in danger.  So there is indeed an advantage to being Big And Ugly.  Ha!

As to the people not being nice, I cant speak for your experience.  But I do know that after Hugo and the depression it brought to the island, they are EAGER to welcome visitors back to the island.

Maybe if you were as nice as I am, they would be nice to you too?

; )

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## JEK

> QUOTE:" Fredericksted: While the downtown area is very attractive, it is also very quiet right now as there are no cruise ships. "
> 
> Very strange. Used to be a busy cruise ship stop. Too much crime?? I know the cruise lines are very sensitive to onshore crime- SXM has been threatened with stoppage- but  I can't believe that NO cruise line would not stop there. 
> I have had my fill of St. Croix- people are too nasty and the rasties are still there and thriving.



I am booked to arrive on the 7th and will send hourly crime updates.

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## Island Visitor

The Terrace resto at The Bucc reopens on the 15th but the Brass Parrot (a/c, indoors, same kitchen) is open.

Would love to get periodic updates.

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## andynap

> QUOTE:" Fredericksted: While the downtown area is very attractive, it is also very quiet right now as there are no cruise ships. "
> 
> Very strange. Used to be a busy cruise ship stop. Too much crime?? I know the cruise lines are very sensitive to onshore crime- SXM has been threatened with stoppage- but  I can't believe that NO cruise line would not stop there. 
> I have had my fill of St. Croix- people are too nasty and the rasties are still there and thriving. 
> 
> 
> 
> I am booked to arrive on the 7th and will send hourly crime updates.



Save yourself the time. Just watch out for those with dreadlocks and singing  "Day Tripper".

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## Island Visitor

?

In three weeks on the island, I think I have seen perhaps four or five rastamen.

I can see that many at the mall in any american city.

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## andynap

> ?
> 
> In three weeks on the island, I think I have seen perhaps four or five rastamen.
> 
> I can see that many at the mall in any american city.



You have to open your eyes :)

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## JEK

I happen to like dreads, some of my good friends have them.

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## andynap

QUOTE:" some of my  *god*  friends have them "



You called??

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## JEK

> QUOTE:" some of my  *god*  friends have them "
> 
> 
> 
> You called??




?????

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## Island Visitor

> ?
> 
> In three weeks on the island, I think I have seen perhaps four or five rastamen.
> 
> I can see that many at the mall in any american city. 
> 
> 
> 
> You have to open your eyes :)



My last trip was about eight weeks ago.  

When was yours?

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## MIke R

while living on St Croix I hired two islanders...one was a rasta man..... one day he told me he was going to visit friends and family and asked me if I wanted to come along for the ride......I agreed and off we went...depp..deep...into the rainforest.....


one of the more interesting days of my life to that point....


he ended up going back to the USA with us and staying in our employment for a year or so.... he met a Delta flight attendant and moved to Atlanta to live with her......another American dream fulfilled....LOL

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## Peter NJ

Miker back in the day,it probably wasnt one of your smartest moves going deep into that rainforest with a Rasta..So ive been told...

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## MIke R

> Miker back in the day,it probably wasnt one of your smartest moves going deep into that rainforest with a Rasta..So ive been told...




yeah I know but I thought I was even more bullet proof in those days then I feel now today......LOL......but honestly I never felt uncomfortable or in danger one bit....they were all very nice and welcoming.....there was quite a bit witchcraft and black magic going on amongst the non rasta old timer islanders in those days....now that is some scarey stuff

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## andynap

QUOTE:" while living on St Croix I hired two islanders...one was a rasta man..... one day he told me he was going to visit friends and family and asked me if I wanted to come along for the ride......I agreed and off we went...depp..deep...into the rainforest....."

Some good weed I bet. LOL

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## MIke R

the 5th

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## JEK

Mrs. JEK is now in  the thinking about packing stage, so a few questions on dress. St. Bart's light or Disneyland heavy?

On food: please give me your preferred bookings for lunch and dinner for 5 days.

On other things: how many Euros to take, will my cell phone work, should I pack Ziploc bags. You know the standard stuff :-)

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## Island Visitor

1.  Clothing:

American Beachwear.  No jacket or tie required anywhere.  I have been accepted in shorts and sandals pretty much everywhere although some gentlemen may want a pair of slacks.  For ladies, spaghetti strap tops are fine although sheer or open weave mesh would be out of place.  Alas, women are second class citizens on St Croix and The Propriety Police require them to keep Those Menaces To Decent Order hidden away behind a bathing suit top.  

The bottom line is that dress on St Croix is casual and appropriate for a beach town.  No uncovered bathing suits in town, nothing tacky, nothing horribly over the top elegant.

2.  Vittles

Day one (arrival):
Dinner:  The Terrace, Buccaneer

Day two:
Breakfast:  Mermaid Resto, Buccaneer (included in room rate)
Lunch:  The Mermaid.  Why not enjoy the first day on the beach?
Dinner:  Savant.  Tres romantique.  INSIST on the courtyard

Day three:
Breakfast:  Ibid
Lunch:  Rumrunners - after coming back from your Buck Island trip.  Bathing suits and a coverup are perfectly fine here - even if you are salty and sandy
Dinner:  Tutto Bene.  A nice little Italian spot nearby

Day four:
Breakfast:  Ibid
Lunch:  Something lite at mermaid
Dinner:  Duggan's Reef.  The Drunken Scallops are the speciality.  Enjoy the breezes...

Day five:
Breakfast:  Ibid
Lunch:  Mermaid (enjoying the beach your last day)
Dinner:  Cheeseburger in Paradise - shorts and tshirts

This, of course, leaves out Kendrick, the best resto on the island.

3.  Stuff to take:

As to question 3, no euros needed.  It's all American dollars.  The prices you will pay in the restos is the same as or possibly less than what you will pay in a big american city.  As to cellphones, most "nationwide plans" do indeed include the USVI.  And yes, our ATT plan does.  Service should be good.  Actually, service IS good - you and I proved that on my trip.

As far as other stuff to take, you can get a liter bottle of Cruzan rhum for $6.25 at the Buccaneer gift shop.  Ergo, you are covered.

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## JEK

> This, of course, leaves out Kendrick, the best resto on the island.



I have extended the trip by a day to dine at Kendrick :-) 

Thanks for the dressing and eating tips!

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## Island Visitor

You are welcome.  There is also the Christiansted Brew Pub for suds, subs and steaks.  They also have crab races once or twice a week.  

The problem with the Buccaneer is that the food at the Mermaid is quite good and quite reasonably priced.  It makes it hard to leave that resto during lunch to go other places.

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## JEK

STX Trip Report

IV has written a nice overview of the island, which stands totally uncorrected.  I will add a few points of my mine and perhaps emphasize a few of his. Since it had been 35 years since we had been on the rock, we really didn

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## MIke R

thanks for that.....if you check out St John you may never go back to St Croix....St Thomas you will want to leave the minute you arrive

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## KevinS

> QUOTE:" Fredericksted: While the downtown area is very attractive, it is also very quiet right now as there are no cruise ships. "
> 
> Very strange. Used to be a busy cruise ship stop. Too much crime?? I know the cruise lines are very sensitive to onshore crime- SXM has been threatened with stoppage- but  I can't believe that NO cruise line would not stop there.



Not to worry Mon, Soon Come.

"Starting in 2009, the [Disney Cruise] line is mixing it up with two new Disney Magic itineraries that will include the line's first stops in St. Croix in the U.S. Virgin Islands and Tortola in the British Virgin Islands.

The ports will replace St. Maarten on the Magic's existing eastern Caribbean itinerary."  

There are supposedly two new itineraries being added for the Eastern Caribbean, with some including St Croix and some including Tortola.  The St Maarten port of call will continue be on the Eastern Caribbean itineraries that don't include St Croix and Tortola.

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## MIke R

God bless Tortola....another one bites the dust

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## Island Visitor

Kevin:  One advantage of stopping at Fsted is that ships can refuel for less than many other ports as Hugo and his American partners do not have to transport the newly refined oil off the island.

The occasional cruise ship will be a tremendous jolt in the arm to Fsted particularly and the island in general as it will put STX on many people's radars.  Couple year-round great weather with real estate prices that have lagged the US coast and this could get interesting.

There is also a Miker Crowd on the island that thinks cruise ships could be trouble but it seems that most folks would like to see them return. 

Thanks for the scoop.

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## JEK

> Kevin:  One advantage of stopping at Fsted is that ships can refuel for less than many other ports as Hugo and his American partners do not have to transport the newly refined oil off the island.
> 
> The occasional cruise ship will be a tremendous jolt in the arm to Fsted particularly and the island in general as it will put STX on many people's radars.  Couple year-round great weather with real estate prices that have lagged the US coast and this could get interesting.
> 
> There is also a Miker Crowd on the island that thinks cruise ships could be trouble but it seems that most folks would like to see them return. 
> 
> Thanks for the scoop.



A cruiser was in port when we were there. No mouse ears.

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