# Other Places Around The World > Italy Travel Forum >  >  Provence and Amalfi Coast

## JoshA

We are in the process of planning a two-week trip in September to Provence and the Amalfi Coast and would like some advice on places and logistics. It seems like getting to Provence is relatively easy with flights to CDG and the TGV to Avignon. There also seems to be a weekly flight on a small airline from Nice to Rome but we're wondering about reliability. Is it better to return to Paris? Is a car needed around Positano? I remember driving in Rome from decades ago and the roads on the Amalfi coast seem, um, challenging. We would also like to spend a few days on Capri. Too much? For those who have been to these places, what did you like best? Thanks for your advice.

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## MIke R

you need  a car for sure.....you have to do Capri...and the port town of Sorrento where you take the boat to Capri is nice as well...if you are that close to the ruins of Pompei  you cant go without seeing it...for me it mesmerized me and I spent the better part of the day there....why not fly into Naples?????..I loved Ravello and Positano along the coast ride

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## smason3

Oh, what fun! I agree that a car is required as is a trip to Capri. I haven't stayed overnight, but I would next time. I've heard that it is so different after all the day trippers leave.

Yes, the roads are very challenging. My husband thinks that driving in Italy is the most challenging that he has done. It didn't help that on the A2 there were no lines for miles. Turns out, you really can fit more than three lanes of cars. The roads in the Amalfi Coast are windy, but not difficult because you can't go that fast. Well, we couldn't. We were stopped several times to let herds of goats cross the road. The drive is an experience itself. We found no restaurants along the way, so make sure eat before you the drive. 

We stayed in Ravello at the Hotel Villa Cimbrone and loved both the hotel and the town, which is mostly pedestrian only. The restaurants there were charming and delicious. You can walk to them all.

We went to Herculaneum (Ercolano) instead of Pompeii as it was a smaller and less crowded site. It was very hot when we went, so we didn't do any climbing.

I think two weeks is fine with a week in each place. Flying to Naples is a good idea. We didn't like Naples, but if you are there, you must go to Via San Gregorio Armeno. It is the famous street, which has all the shops selling the terracotta nativity scenes. It is one of the most amazing shopping experiences. My husband was less than thrilled when we had to buy a new suitcase to carry all of our purchases home. I would go back to Naples just for that store!

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## DaveM

Wow. Exciting trip, and great time of year for both regions. 

On Provence, maybe fly to Nice and scenic drive through the region to your destination, as a car is definitely needed here anyway (vs. train). 

For us, Capri was the top priotity in the Amalfi region, so we spent 4-5 days on the island and just 2 driving the coast. Flew to Naples and hired a car and driver, which I don't recall being much more than the car rental alone. We were picked up at the airport and rode the top of the coast to Positano (wow views the whole way), stayed there one night, walked to dinner; driver came again next morning, we looped south, through Amalfi and Ravello (stop and see Ravello), then up to Sorrento for the ferry. No driving nor time lost to pick up drop off hassle, as Sorrento is not close to the airport/car drop. More time would have been nice, but meant less on Capri. 

Capri is amazing, and if anything, I would have increased our time there. 

If you want more details just PM me.

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## JoshA

Thanks, DaveM, PeteSam, and MikeR. I was trying to fly from Provence (where we will rent a car) which makes Rome a much easier destination but I think going back to Paris allows a much better flight to Naples. I do like the idea of staying in Capri and maybe using drivers for a few days on the Amalfi coast but maybe we'll rent a car there as well. We're meeting friends for the Italian portion of the trip so we'll need transport for 6 of us.

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## LindaP

Josh,
     The fun is in the planning, isn't it??  :Big Grin:  I am presently just finishing arrangements for our trip to Portugal in September! My two favorite places: the Amalfi coast and the Algarve coast!!! If you scroll down, my Praino report is here.
  We loved Praino, good place to travel everywhere, and our hotel, Casa Angelina, I highly recommend.
   We flew from Paris to Napoli, and then were met by a driver, who took us to Casa Angelina.....much easier than trying to navigate those roads!

    We also have been to Capri twice.....definately worth the trip.....if you have any questions, about resto, etc, feel free to PM me. Good luck!!!!

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## GramChop

> Oh, what fun! I agree that a car is required as is a trip to Capri. I haven't stayed overnight, but I would next time. I've heard that it is so different after all the day trippers leave.
> 
> Yes, the roads are very challenging. My husband thinks that driving in Italy is the most challenging that he has done. It didn't help that on the A2 there were no lines for miles. Turns out, you really can fit more than three lanes of cars. The roads in the Amalfi Coast are windy, but not difficult because you can't go that fast. Well, we couldn't. We were stopped several times to let herds of goats cross the road. The drive is an experience itself. We found no restaurants along the way, so make sure eat before you the drive. 
> 
> We stayed in *Ravello at the Hotel Villa Cimbrone* and loved both the hotel and the town, which is mostly pedestrian only. The restaurants there were charming and delicious. You can walk to them all.
> 
> We went to Herculaneum (Ercolano) instead of Pompeii as it was a smaller and less crowded site. It was very hot when we went, so we didn't do any climbing.
> 
> I think two weeks is fine with a week in each place. Flying to Naples is a good idea. We didn't like Naples, but if you are there, you must go to Via San Gregorio Armeno. It is the famous street, which has all the shops selling the terracotta nativity scenes. It is one of the most amazing shopping experiences. My husband was less than thrilled when we had to buy a new suitcase to carry all of our purchases home. I would go back to Naples just for that store!



i absolutely LOVED villa cimbrone!!!  i toured it prior to a great dinner at cumpo cosimo and then a concert during the ravello music festival!  there is nothing like taking in the grounds and gardens and then rounding the corner onto the massive patio with all the busts overlooking the amalfi coast and the sea!  that was one of the few moments that truly took my breath away!

i recommend hiring a car and driver so you can enjoy the sights.  that's what i did!

i took the ferry to capri from positano (where i stayed for 5 days at hotel miramare).  i hired a taxi to show me capri.  i ate at addo rico (sp?) above the blue grotto.  the greatest lobster and pasta ever!

whatever you end up doing - you are in for a treat!  that is a beautiful part of the world!

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## JoshA

Linda and GC: Thanks for your insights. We are planning to stay in Avignon and Aix and then TGV back to Paris for a flight to Naples. We will be with friends in Italy so the centrality of Positano is more attractive than the romance of a quiet town like Praiano. At some point we want to visit Ercalano, Pompeii, and Paestum as well. We also want to stay in Capri. The itinerary is coming into focus.

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## Toni

Josh, try sending a pm to Lynn (lmj) about this hotel on Capri..  La Minerva .  I bookmarked it a while ago when she mentioned it in another post.  I think she would have some valuable info for you but may not have seen this thread...

For what it's worth, I'm going to Provence in September as well and we are flying into Marseille.  The cost isn't really any more than flying into Paris and we're saving the hours on the train... Just something to think about...

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## Petri

When we visit Capri, we had superb cruise on a traditional boat with Giovanni Aprea.  We stopped by here and there, swim, laughed at the tourist boats, learnt a lot how the system works in Italy (;-) and had a great half a day.  The next day half of the island knew we were the finns in town.  He is the resident Capri expert on TripAdvisor's forum.

He seem to have extended his services now (www.caprileisure.com) but I'm pretty sure he can give some great advice or services, perhaps he still does his own boat tours as well.

Anema e Core (www.anemaecore.com) is a must for the late evening.

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## LindaP

Yes Petri....we had a lot of fun at Anema e Core; still have a tamborine with their name on it from a few years ago!

Be sure and check out the Frangolini restaurant, near the Fraglioni (sp?) rocks....several steps down, but worth it for the resto. We went there twice, the best fresh pasta, insalata mista, squid, yummy. They also rent chairs and cusions for their 'rock' beach.
     The funny thing was, there was a couple behind us, that asked if we had been to St Barths (my husband had a shirt on, that said St Barths).......they were from the US, and said that was one of their favorite places, besides Capri !

   Also, if you stay in Positano....you can get a free shuttle across the water to the restaurant "La Gavitella". It is worth the trip, great food and place, and I think you can get it almost every hour. www.lagavitella.it

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## Petri

> Be sure and check out the Frangolini restaurant, near the Fraglioni (sp?) rocks....several steps down, but worth it for the resto. We went there twice, the best fresh pasta, insalata mista, squid, yummy. They also rent chairs and cusions for their 'rock' beach.



That was actually the lunch place Giovanni recommended to us, called the owner to make sure there was room and dropped us off there with his boat after the tour.

We also learnt that when ordering fish, never check the menu but ask what's fresh today.  If I remember correctly, the amount of fishing in the region has dropped dramatically.

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## MIke R

> We also learnt that when ordering fish, never check the menu but ask what's fresh today.




ya think.......?

you are preaching to a mostly deaf ear in here in regards to that particular ordering method...LOL

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## Petri

> you are preaching to a mostly deaf ear in here in regards to that particular ordering method...LOL



Didn't ask for dover sole, though ;-)  It's beautiful St B^H^H^H^H Italy after all, they'd never serve you frozen, old, or otherwise less fresh fish..  right..?

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## lmj

Here I am Toni!  YES, definitely stay at the Minerva if you can get a res.  It is in a fantastic location, has a wonderful owner, and is one of the best run and most romantic hotels I've ever stayed in anywhere.  We stayed in Capri for a week and could have stayed for a month... or forever!
 
Breakfast on our terrace:
 

Re Positano, we stayed at a great hotel, also beautiful and very romantic:  Hotel Palazzo Murat  Murat 
Great location, very quiet, they serve breakfast in a beautiful little courtyard with orange and lemon trees, from which they pick the fruit to make your morning juice.  It was formerly the palace of the King of southern Italy.

In Ravello we stayed at the Hotel Caruso, beautiful but ridiculously expensive, I'm not sure I would do it again.  We stayed for 3 nights for my husband's 50th in a spectacular suite with a huge flower-filled terrace, where we actually held his party (my brother and his family flew over to join us).  Here's the terrace, we had a 4 room suite attached to it but spent all of our time out here or at the gorgeous infinity pool:
 
 

Re Provence, we are just now planning our trip there this May/June, we'll also be going to Italy for a month... anyway, take a look at St. Rémy or Les Baux as possible places to stay.  Aix is nice but very built-up, not as wonderful as I remember it from when I lived in France.  

Have fun planning!!!!!!  
All the best,
Lynn

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## JoshA

Toni, Petri, Linda and Lynn: Thanks for all the great information. We are indeed staying at Minerva on Capri. We will be looking into your suggestions of boats and restaurants as well. In the process of hammering this out with our friends over several teleconferences, apparently we enticed one of the couples whom we were meeting in Italy to ask if they can join us in Provence. Right now it looks like Air France can make the IAD - CDG - NAP route with the fewest compromises. The trip framework is nearly complete. Thanks, all, for your input.

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